Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 15 of 15

Thread: How many pieces??

  1. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by redhumpy View Post
    You can lay out a four piece rod on the ground to form a square. With a three piece rod you can only do a triangle at best.
    With a 7-piece you can play pick-up-sticks ..... soon ....
    Mario Geldenhuys
    Smallstream fanatic, plus I do some other things that I can't tell you about

    "All the tips or magical insights in the world can't replace devotion, dedication, commitment, and gumption - and there is not secret in that" - Glenn Brackett

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    JHB, Gauteng


    Your new expensive 7 piece is a lot easier to hide from swambo.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Blog Entries


    You can name your pieces: Bashful - Doc - Dopey - Grumpy - Happy - Sleepy and Sneezy.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Cape Town


    Nic- if you plan on only doing day trips then 2 piece is fine. For multiple day hikes it helps to have a rod that can fit into your pack- especially if you are only meant to be hiking..

    I use ab 8'6'' SLT 2 piece for our local day trips but I once tried to take it on a 4 day mission and that was the last time it has ever seen the stars!
    " Expecting the world to treat you fairly because you are good is like expecting the bull not to charge because you are a vegetarian." -Dennis Wholey

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Western Province


    Mario is correct about the stiffness at the ferrules changing the action.

    Basically a one piece rod allows for the smoothest action. The "action" being the way the rod bends gradually through from tip to butt as a load is applied. Any ferrule, even the best designed ones WILL change the action even if only very marginally. The more ferrules you have the more chances there are for hiccups in the transition of bending from tip to butt.

    The stiffness of a rod is essentially determined by the diameter of the rod section operating to the fourth power, the elastic modulus (essentially the capacity of the material to deform under a force - the higher the elastic modulus the stiffer the material) and wall thickness (i.e. degree of hollowing).

    Because the diameter operates at the fourth power and the range of avaiblable different elastic moduli is not that broad in any one material it is the diameter that has way the biggest effect on the stiffness of the rod. Wall thickness's effect is fairly small. (It does however have a significant effect on the weight of the rod and therefore on momentum and centre of gravity which in turn affects the way the rod feels in hand. This is particularly important in bamboo rod design).

    Where the ferrule is essentially one section sleeving over the next (a sleeve-over ferrule) there is considerable change in rod diameter (and therefore rod taper) over the ferrules. This will noticeably affect the rod's stiffness at these points and therefore affect its action. I think it would be nigh impossible to design a ferruleless and a sleeve-over ferruled rod that have the same action. You would have to design the ferrule-less one to match the ferruled one and not visa versa. This would be counterproductive.

    A spigot ferrule (one that has a solid 'dowel' fixed into one section and sliding into the next section) is a different kettle of fish. Here the rod taper diameter can essentially stay) 'on-track' through the ferrule. The diameter therefore doesn't affect the stiffness. The spigot itself can, at least theoretically, be designed to keep the same flex as there would be in a ferrule-less situation. The solidity, and the chosen elastic modulus, of the dowel has to be offset against its diameter to try to design the correct flex into it. I think upper end rods get pretty close. There will however be the unavoidable weight of the solid dowel that cannot be factored out of how the rod feels. When you put even a small weight at the end of a long lever arm its effect becomes significant. Try putting a small blob of prestick on your tip-top, or somehwere below it, you will notice the effect when you waggle the rod, particularly on lighter line rods. Even lower down the rod the effect is noticeable.

    One last consideration is the placement of the ferrules. Rods are usually made with equal length sections (presumably for ease of packing) This might not necessarily be optimum. Take the case of a 2 piece rod vs a 3 piece. In the 2 piece the ferrule is located in the middle of the rod. With a 3 piece the middle of the rod is ferrule-free. If the rod is designed to be more mid-flexing the 3 piece will probably be better than the 2 piece.

    In my view, in most cases the less ferrules the better - a one piece rod being optimum - but in some instances more ferrules can be better than less. Either way they have to be designed in because they do affect the feel of the rod one way or another.

    Just some thoughts.
    Last edited by freestone; 26-11-11 at 12:37 PM.
    Stephen Dugmore ](

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts