First Build - Winston Passport 7’6 3wt

[mornesm]

Please when you have time, won't you take some pictures of your setup ito your dryer/roller/etc.

Not the best photos, but I think you'll get an idea of my simple setup. There's nothing new to it, really. I made them with ideas borrowed mainly from this forum and some books. As mentioned before, I just need to improve the thread tensioner. Currently it is not very smooth, but it works. Something I added while I started wrapping, was the tension rods through which the thread runs before going onto the blank. These made a HUGE difference. For these I used 1.5mm steel rods bought from a hobby shop (steering rod for model airplane). They have a nice spring action.

The rod dryer is very simple, and as I also mentioned before, have not been tested yet (apart from just switching on the motor). I just used a microwave motor. I used the sleeve part of a bolt as a shaft. It slides snugly over the motor shaft as an extension, and is easily removable. As a 'chuck', I used a 50mm pvc end cap. I still need to fit it with dowel sticks or bolts in which to clamp the rod. I was thinking of using rubber bands to secure the rod while turning. seems like a simple, effective method.


P1080434.jpg

P1080436.jpg

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[mornesm]

Another thing (and this might mean redoing all the wraps :biggrin - try to flatten the guide feet next time .... A dremel or file is needed. Grinder too if you are VERY VERY careful ... and brave!

I tried this last night, and I do think that it looks better now. I have not really flatted the feet as such, but I just rounded the edges as much as possible with a file. now they don't stand out so clearly under the wrap. I started with this on the bigger guides, but will have to redo the smaller ones as well. Going to be a challenge holding them properly...

[Scythe]

Thanks for the pics on your setup ... always nice to see someone else's train of thought on things and I really like to steal with my eyes. Neatly done and very minimalist aswell. Good job.

[mornesm]

I have now re-wrapped the guides after rounding the feet a bit. I have also reduced the wrap length. Thanks for those tips. Below are the before and after photos.

All that remains to be wrapped now, is the stripping guide. I am re-doing the ferrule wraps too.

BEFORE:
P1080417.jpg

AFTER:
20121202_172732.jpg

[smallstreams.co.za]

I have now re-wrapped the guides after rounding the feet a bit. I have also reduced the wrap length. Thanks for those tips. Below are the before and after photos.

All that remains to be wrapped now, is the stripping guide. I am re-doing the ferrule wraps too.

BEFORE:
P1080417.jpg

AFTER:
20121202_172732.jpg

PERFECT!!!! Well done Morne, this is going to be a really nice 1st rod. Wraps are really looking good!!

[mornesm]

At last I have taken a deep breath, and started applying the finish. Overall, it went OK. I have applied one coat last night, and a second coat this morning. I have a problem with the coating. As I applied the first coat, I noticed that on a couple of the wraps, it was as if the coating didn't take to the thread properly, and dimples formed. It was as if there were small dry spots. As I worked, I added more coating to those wraps for the epoxy to fill the dimples and spread evenly. I gave It a few minutes and wicked the 'excess' epoxy from the wrap. The dimples however kept appearing - not necessarily on the same spot. I thought that the second coat would solve the problem, but it didn't. It almost made it worse. What can be the cause of this? I have lookes for fuzzies, but could not see any with the naked eye. I have completed two section of the rod now, but want to try and avoid this happening to the rest of the sections. I was quite disapointed to see this...

20121209_085319-1.jpg

20121209_085639-1.jpg

[smallstreams.co.za]

Morne, most likely that the thread had "oily" spots on. Did you wash the thread in hottish water??

Could also be bad epoxy (since you say it was not the same spots the whole time). What did you use, where did you get it, and how did you store it?

[mornesm]

Morne, most likely that the thread had "oily" spots on. Did you wash the thread in hottish water??

Could also be bad epoxy (since you say it was not the same spots the whole time). What did you use, where did you get it, and how did you store it?

I have rinsed the remaining section under warm running water. Hopefully this will help.

I have used Threadmaster Lite, ordered from J Stockard with the rest of the components.

[smallstreams.co.za]

Good luck with the remaining sections.

Make sure your brushes, mixing cups, thread, blank, hands and EVERYTHING else is clean (Benzine works for me). It's a process I go through with every section. Tedious, I know, but beats having to redo this ... and a pain to get them off neatly to redo. Spend 20 minutes more now rather than 20 hours more later on.

I've had this "effect" on some decals before, never on wraps. Still maintain it's some sort on contamination somewhere on areas (in your case thread) that you are coating.

[Michael]

At last I have taken a deep breath, and started applying the finish. Overall, it went OK. I have applied one coat last night, and a second coat this morning. I have a problem with the coating. As I applied the first coat, I noticed that on a couple of the wraps, it was as if the coating didn't take to the thread properly, and dimples formed. It was as if there were small dry spots. As I worked, I added more coating to those wraps for the epoxy to fill the dimples and spread evenly. I gave It a few minutes and wicked the 'excess' epoxy from the wrap. The dimples however kept appearing - not necessarily on the same spot. I thought that the second coat would solve the problem, but it didn't. It almost made it worse. What can be the cause of this? I have lookes for fuzzies, but could not see any with the naked eye. I have completed two section of the rod now, but want to try and avoid this happening to the rest of the sections. I was quite disapointed to see this...

Hi Morne

To tell you the honest truth, I have never experienced this. But I think it's because I take extreme care to keep my hands clean and free of oils, keep all my mixing utensils and holders clean, brushes, etc etc.
There's always some "wavy" textures after applying the finish...but it levels out quickly while in the drying motor.

Follow my routine, and you should be A-okay:

- Always keep your thread spools sealed in small zip-lock bags, to avoid dust collecting on the threads.
- Wrap your guides in a dust-free environment...that is, no drafts...no fans...no aircons, etc. The air must be "still".
- Before wrapping your guides, and after prepping them...wipe them with a paper kitchen-towel soaked with a little thinners, to remove any oils, dust, filings, etc.
- Make sure your blank is completely clean too...no fingerprints, oils, etc.
- Wash your hands after wrapping every second guide...seriously. Especially in summer. Your fingers and palms need to stay very clean.
- Before applying finish to the wrapped guides, make sure there's no dust on the wraps.
- I use shot-glasses as a mixing cup. The ones I use have little glass handles too, to make gripping them easier. These glass containers (tot glasses) I wash out with thinners before using them.
- Wash your brushes with thinners after every use too, and your mixing implements.
- I stir my epoxy with a small stainless steel spatula, which has also been wiped clean with thinners and a paper towel.
- I use a pair of syinges on two rods only...then use new ones again. After using them the first time, I put them in their own zip-lock bags (never try wash them or anything). Next rod, just take them out and use them directly. After that, I chuck them away and use new ones. If it's a long time between builds, I use a new pair of syringes on each rod.
- I heat up my resin and hardener before use, by putting the bottles about 10cm away from a light-bulb. I also heat up the tot-glasses (which I mix my finish in) by rinsing it out with boiling hot water (after cleaning them with thinners). This all helps with thinning out the mixture, making mixing it easier, eliminates the chance of bubbles forming to a great degree, etc. I also add about 4 drops of thinners to the mixture before stirring.
- Stir for AT LEAST 5 minutes. And slowly! Try to introduce zero bubbles. It's critical that the finish is properly mixed and crystal clear, no streaks.
- When applying the finish, put a glob on each wrapped guide, quickly...this will start soaking in nicely. Then go back, and neaten the finish up, adding and removing as needed. With a brush, never "brush" the finish on...just hold it above the wraps, touch them, and then rotate the blank with your free hand. This will ensure no bubbles get introduced. It may also help with your blotchy effect, not sure. But it works for me. I also use the flat little spatula sometimes to apply the finish instead of brushes. Works very well, especially on the ends of the wraps, for a neat clean straight line.
- a Tip: Start the "glob" in the middle of the wrap. Then add to the front of the wrap, neaten up the end...then work the finish from the middle inwards towards the centre of the guide (along the feet). This way...you effectively "chase" the air-bubble out which forms between the blank and guide foot, under the thread. It's especially noticable on the bigger stripping guides.
You have to work fast though...the longer you take, the more tacky the finish becomes, and the more difficult it soaks into the thread. (Those bubbles under the wrap, between the guide and the blank, form because you put epoxy along the entire length of the wrap at once...successfully trapping the air bubble between the ends of the wraps).

Once you are happy with the finish and amount on each wrap...check each one for micro-bubbles and remove them by blowing through a straw on the finish. This will pop them. Also, you can use a lighter...hold it against the wrap, about 1cm away...NOT under the wrap! This will bring the bubbles to the surface and pop them. Remember to keep turning the blank, while popping the bubbles.

Then zap it in the dryer, and leave it overnight.

I use Threadmaster too...but the High-Build. One coat is enough...comes out perfect every time.

Hope it helps.