Favourite flies for yellows

[dlampert]

Darryl

For my heavier control type flies there is only one hook and that is the new Mustad light wire circle hook. I am not sure of the code, but Sean stocks them. We have tried all the other brands of circle hooks, but they are far inferior.

For lighter weight flies the TMC 205 BL is great. That is if you can track some down. This is basically a fancy vd Merwe hook and the shape is perfect for Czech Nymps. There is also a new model gamakatsu out that has the same shape, but I am not sure whether you will find them down here.

Enjoy the trip.

MC

Hi MC,

I have the Mustad 39951BLN Demon Circle Extra Fine Wire Hooks which I bought from Sean some time ago - are these the hooks you are talking about ? I also bought some TMC2457 for smaller caddis patterns and bought some leaded and authentic Czech nymph hooks from Partridge to try out. With an existing supply of Grips, Gamakatsu and various van der Merwe hooks, it's anyones guess whether I will be able to remember what pattern I tied on what hook and which one is catching fish

Thanks for the info, will let you know how it went when we get back.

Regards,
Darryl

[dlampert]

Darryl,

The patridge hooks that you bought- do they have a funny bend next to the point? i.e. the point is not inline with the shank- it veers off to the left. I see all my patridges have this. I did not notice it when I bought them- looks a bit strange...

Hi Kevin,

Yes they do, make sure you buy both the left and right hand versions ! If you think those are funny you should see the hook points on the Mustad Circles - they point down towards the shank

Rgds,
Darryl

[dlampert]

Darrel, please give us some feed back on what worked for you??

Mike,

Will do. In the past I have just caught them on weighted zak's and caddis green rock worms, don't know why I am getting all fancy for this trip

Regards,
Darryl

[MaXiMuM]

Darrel

Sorry Darryl , and I thought you had left already.

I have also been taking lots of fish on ZAK’s, as either the dropper or the point, but I have found that ZAK’s with more flash tend to produce better.

I do have a nice little technique for you, as I said in Fly Swap Thread
I fish an un-weighted emerger on the point: I tie that Seals Fur Emerger, but you can use a CDC emerger, or even a lightly dressed dry, in size 14 - 18. The idea here is to trap small air bubble in the fly, which is a good trigger for most species.

Then I change the distance from the dropper to the point, depending on the contour of the river bed. In a section of river that is almost flat, I’ll fish it 16 – 18 inches back, as it get rockier, I extend the distance, where it is really uneven, I might fish it as far back as 3 – 4 feet.

Here is the reasoning. As the dropper goes through the bumps and troughs’ on the bottom, it drags the un-weighted point along, flicking it up and down, the up flick is the key, imitating an insect breaking of the surface, and the rockier it is the more difficult it is to get that up movement.

If that’s not working try a bloodworm, or a RAB, on the point…

[dizzy]

If that’s not working try a bloodworm, or a RAB, on the point…

The Prince nymph has also been doing a sterling job for me of late, fished in the same way as Max described he fishes his emerger.

[MaXiMuM]

I might be way wrong, but I always look at the un-weighted Prince as a type of emerger. The splitting goose biots (sp) are trying to imitate the wing casing splitting, but the tail…

Dizzy are you tying your own Princes??

[dizzy]

I might be way wrong, but I always look at the un-weighted Prince as a type of emerger. The splitting goose biots (sp) are trying to imitate the wing casing splitting, but the tail…

Dizzy are you tying your own Princes??

Yip, but not with the with the wing case. For the thorax I use a light olive dubbing which holds air / bubbles. You mentioned that you use a dry fly to do something similar. I'm assume that this is why the prince is so successful for me.

[KevinC]

Sorry Darryl , and I thought you had left already.

I have also been taking lots of fish on ZAK’s, as either the dropper or the point, but I have found that ZAK’s with more flash tend to produce better.

I do have a nice little technique for you, as I said in Fly Swap Thread
I fish an un-weighted emerger on the point: I tie that Seals Fur Emerger, but you can use a CDC emerger, or even a lightly dressed dry, in size 14 - 18. The idea here is to trap small air bubble in the fly, which is a good trigger for most species.

Then I change the distance from the dropper to the point, depending on the contour of the river bed. In a section of river that is almost flat, I’ll fish it 16 – 18 inches back, as it get rockier, I extend the distance, where it is really uneven, I might fish it as far back as 3 – 4 feet.

Here is the reasoning. As the dropper goes through the bumps and troughs’ on the bottom, it drags the un-weighted point along, flicking it up and down, the up flick is the key, imitating an insect breaking of the surface, and the rockier it is the more difficult it is to get that up movement.

If that’s not working try a bloodworm, or a RAB, on the point…

Shot for the info Mike- I'm trying to slot as much of this kind of info into my thick head before we leave Very basically, how do you tie this seals fur emerger? With the risk of sounding stupid, is it a standard emerger pattern simply tied with seals fur, or is there something more to it?

[MaXiMuM]

Hi Kev, I tie almost a standard nymph, so it goes something like this:

Cream, so all your colors are light colors:
Dress the hook, with no weight.
Tie in a white tail.
Tie in your ribbing. Thin copper wire.
Spin a thin noodle of dubbing, I mix squirrel or hairs ear, with a little seals fur.
Wrap it forward to about half way, rib it and tie it off.
Take a small clump of seals fur and tie it in to make the wing case.
Dub the abdomen.
Take the seals fur over, making the wing case, but don’t try to pull it too tight and don’t cut it off.
Use a 1 or 2 turns of thread to secure it and then pull it back wards, to look like wings popping out. Now wrap it with about 4 turn of thread.
Attaché the tip of 2 Goose biot’s (sp), keep in them close together to resemble the splayed wing case.
Give it some legs under the abdomen, point backwards, to represent the legs being pulled out of the shuck.
Tie it off, and secure it with head cement.

I think the pattern resembles a laying cadis as well, it has the correct triggers.

I will tie some up soon and post my tying steps.

[KevinC]

Thanks boet

I think I understand your tying sequence- I'll have a go at tying it this a.m.

I was tying bombs at Darryl's place yesterday- there cannot possibly be anything worse to tie. Those control flies are simply not pretty to tie at all! But hey, I now have caddis imitations with three full layers of .30 lead wire along the hook shank- if they don't get my other flies to the bottom then I give up!