thanks Michael. i'll definitely look into it
amazon.com has it here for a little under US$17 (don't forget shipping costs)
Hi Guys
When I started rod building, I based my tecniques and learnt out of L.A. Garcia's book. Subsequently I've modified some of his idea's, learnt from a whole bunch of other books (including Cane rod building books) and learnt from other rod builders.
But if you feel you can benefit a bit more, or want to learn a little more, here's a really great book to get:
FLY ROD BUILDING MADE EASY - Art Scheck
Allthough the pics are mostly black and white, it's really a brilliant book, with lots of little tricks and tips that make you go "hmmm, I must try that!". The pics are step-by-step and really comprehensive.
Mr. Scheck is also very budget concious...so there's plenty of home-made tools, and alternate materials to use that he mentions to save money. He has a section on home-made rod building stands, which includes a home made thread tensioning device (old rod-tips!) which I've used when I built my new rod building stands, and it works like magic.
The book's available from most rod component shops in the States. Really worthwile to read and add to your collection. Can't recall what I paid exactly, but the SRSP is US $ 25.00.
Last edited by Michael; 30-05-07 at 12:47 AM. Reason: cos I can!
thanks Michael. i'll definitely look into it
amazon.com has it here for a little under US$17 (don't forget shipping costs)
the patient mental...
I've read some mixed reviews on the Art Scheck book on the rodbuilding forums. Basically some good info but they reckon that Art is not very up-to-date with latest thinking. And his sanding of the blanks is downright dangerous. Not my opinions, just what I have gathered.
It seems as if the Tom Kirkman book is the most well rated. I was going to buy a book, but with the discovery of the forums I don't think I need too any more. Just printing out heaps of articles and filing them.
I think most guys who read "sanding blanks" gringe...but I think they misunderstand it. I've been in contact with Tom Kirkman lots of times, and read his book too...the problem is, his book is not very comprehensive, but definitely worth a read. Plus, he wrote the book before changing his views too...especially on the subject of "spine/spline" of a blank.
Most guys scratch the blank (or scuff it) a little. Sanding it is definitely a better option...but we're not saying take a belt-sender to the blank, or use 100 grit and commence sanding it to oblivion! You need either very fine water sandpaper, or even better...3M make scouring pads in fine grade. What you want to do is just break the "water break free" effect on the blank. In other words...picture the following:
On a new, shiny blank...pour a little water over it. The water runs off, leaving a few perfectly round drops of water on it. Shake the blank and they roll or fly off. That's called the blank's "water break free" effect.
If you "scour it" with the 3M pad or very fine sandpaper...you are just removing this shiny effect. Normally just the top colour layer of the blank. You are "dulling" the blank, NOT scratching it.
Now pour some water on the blank. No drops are formed, the water spreads out evenly and the excess rolls off. But the blank is wet all over the dull area.
Epoxy will hold to this area a lot better than on a scratched surface. The epoxy holds on the scratches only, not the shiny area's inbetween...but on the dull area it takes hold over the entire area. Make sense?
Again, I have a PDF file explaining this whole concept, with a few pics. If you would like it, private message me here with your e-mail address, and I'll send it to you no hassle. The file is not big.
There are a lot of old idea's in Art Scheck book yes, but a lot of great tips, tricks and so on as well. It's worth adding to the collection. I like his budget-concious building too...he exposes a lot of cost-saving tips and alternate materials one can use.
See pic below too...on the left is a new blank. On the right is a blank that has been "sanded" (we should call it "surface broken" perhaps!) and ready for epoxy and reel seat/grip...you can see the water break free point has been broken.
Last edited by Michael; 05-12-08 at 01:53 AM.
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