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Thread: Bead Heads

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  1. #1
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    Default Bead Heads

    Hey, is it just me or do you guys also get crappy quality beads whether they are tungsten or brass?
    By crappy, I mean QC (Quality Control)/

    You try feed the beads onto hooks and a few fit and the next few are like trying to thread a square peg into a round hole.

    I have tried different brands, but there is on average a 20% failure on beads.

    I've always used Rip Lips Beads, but somehow I think they have also gone the Chinese route and quality has dropped over the years (+/- last 5 years)

    I'm sick of sitting here poking a dubbing needle through the beads to open the hole and tearing up fingers.

    What are you blokes using?

    FWIW - my hooks I use are always the same.
    TMC 2488H for my nymphs and I'm not prepared to compromise.
    Usual sizes are #16 and #18

    Interested to know.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin James View Post
    Hey, is it just me or do you guys also get crappy quality beads whether they are tungsten or brass?
    By crappy, I mean QC (Quality Control)/

    You try feed the beads onto hooks and a few fit and the next few are like trying to thread a square peg into a round hole.
    FWIW - my hooks I use are always the same.
    TMC 2488H for my nymphs and I'm not prepared to compromise.
    Usual sizes are #16 and #18
    I would suggest trying Morne @ The African Fly Angler:
    http://www.theafricanflyangler.co.za...beads?Itemid=0

    BTW - TMC 2488H are rather thick and have quite a bend, which makes it even harder to get a bead to fit.
    What are you fishing for? I could suggest a better hook.
    Gary
    Flytyer - Where great flytying begins

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by GGY View Post
    I would suggest trying Morne @ The African Fly Angler:
    http://www.theafricanflyangler.co.za...beads?Itemid=0

    BTW - TMC 2488H are rather thick and have quite a bend, which makes it even harder to get a bead to fit.
    What are you fishing for? I could suggest a better hook.
    Hi Gary and members

    My understanding is that most tungsten beads you buy are about 40-60% tungsten.

    Can we get a higher tungsten % in SA? If so where?

    I'm thinking that for a higher % you can fish with a smaller bead to achieve the same weight and that can only be an advantage.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grant111 View Post
    Hi Gary and members

    My understanding is that most tungsten beads you buy are about 40-60% tungsten.
    Can we get a higher tungsten % in SA? If so where?
    I'm thinking that for a higher % you can fish with a smaller bead to achieve the same weight and that can only be an advantage.
    Now Tungsten density = 19.3g/cm^3.
    All "tungsten" beads must be alloyed - max alloy density I know about is around 18g/cm^3.
    The best "tungsten" beads have the highest density, as well as the smallest PRACTICAL slot/hole (width & shape)m as well as the least amount of countersink (for beads with a hole, not a slot).
    To be honest, most tungsten beads come from a very limited amount of suppliers, mostly in China, and thus most will be similar in tungsten %.

    That said, Competition Tungsten is a brand out of Europe, which claims a greater tungsten %, and thus density.
    From my testing, using an accurate scale, this is around 8-10% more mass for the same size slotted bead. Some of this is probably down to smaller slots/holes. Their countersunk are closer to 2-5% heavier, since they have quite a large "countersunk" cutout. Whether this ~5-10% is enough to go a bead size smaller is debatable. Slimmer flies, thinner hooks & less bulk on the fly is likely to have a greater effect than 5-10% heavier bead.

    These are available in SA - contact Ronnie Smith. ronnies@kia.co.za
    Gary
    Flytyer - Where great flytying begins

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by GGY View Post
    Now Tungsten density = 19.3g/cm^3.
    All "tungsten" beads must be alloyed - max alloy density I know about is around 18g/cm^3.
    The best "tungsten" beads have the highest density, as well as the smallest PRACTICAL slot/hole (width & shape)m as well as the least amount of countersink (for beads with a hole, not a slot).
    To be honest, most tungsten beads come from a very limited amount of suppliers, mostly in China, and thus most will be similar in tungsten %.

    That said, Competition Tungsten is a brand out of Europe, which claims a greater tungsten %, and thus density.
    From my testing, using an accurate scale, this is around 8-10% more mass for the same size slotted bead. Some of this is probably down to smaller slots/holes. Their countersunk are closer to 2-5% heavier, since they have quite a large "countersunk" cutout. Whether this ~5-10% is enough to go a bead size smaller is debatable. Slimmer flies, thinner hooks & less bulk on the fly is likely to have a greater effect than 5-10% heavier bead.

    These are available in SA - contact Ronnie Smith. ronnies@kia.co.za
    Tks Gary

    I agree, a 5-10% weight difference is not going to make the difference is was hoping for. Was really hoping the commercial beads were low in content and there was a way to get a significant improvement by sourcing something different.

    Oh well.

  6. #6
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    Thanks Gary for insight.

    I don't know enough about tungsten % and what weights to comment so appreciate your input there.
    The 97% is a claim on their packaging - what I do know though is that these beads shatter on wayward casts.

    For comparison relatively speaking, what would be the weight of say the following sized beads:

    2.00mm = 5/64"
    2.50mm = 3/32"
    3.00mm = 7/64"

    I have some very accurate scales I can use that weigh powder for hand loads.
    Just be interesting to know.

    Thanks mate again for the useful info.

  7. #7
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    Hi Gary,

    Thanks for the reply.

    I love the TMC2488H hook - yep, bit thicker (and heavier) but it is such a strong hook for the big NZ trout and don't open.
    Usually sizes #14-20 are my go-to hook. They are 3x wide which makes a huge difference too.
    The key to this hook is the straight eye which I also like and rides in the water!

    I used the TMC2457 a lot as well, but have consolidated and gone the heavier hook route with the nymphs.

    What are you tying on?

    @Grant - these beads I use are 97% tungsten and go down like the Kursk.
    Always been good, but the QC has let them down of late.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin James View Post
    Hi Gary,
    I love the TMC2488H hook - yep, bit thicker (and heavier) but it is such a strong hook for the big NZ trout and don't open.
    Usually sizes #14-20 are my go-to hook. They are 3x wide which makes a huge difference too.
    The key to this hook is the straight eye which I also like and rides in the water!
    What are you tying on?
    Ah - I see now you are in Oz.
    My preferences depend upon fly style, but I also want the same hook to work on trout and smallmouth yellows, so my requirements match yours for NZ trout.
    Briefly:
    JIGS - Fulling Mill Jig Force Barbless
    Nymph - Hanak H230 (#12-16 ), Dohiku 301 (#18-20) [technically a dry fly hook, but perfecxt for both dry & nymph in these sizes]
    addis - Fulling Mill Czech Nymph
    Dry - Hanak H130 (#12-16), then Dohiku 301 (#18-20)
    Streamer - Knapek N Nymph hooks (not their Streamer hook). Knapek L Lake hooks for certain patterns.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin James View Post
    @Grant - these beads I use are 97% tungsten and go down like the Kursk.
    Always been good, but the QC has let them down of late.
    Careful here - claims of 97% tungsten *may* only be that - claims. I have weighed quite a lot of tungsten on an accurate scale (to 0.001g).
    Gary
    Flytyer - Where great flytying begins

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