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Thread: French leaders?

  1. #11
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    Yes, there are many types of leaders, and I sent my long leader formula, because that's what you asked for. The shorter leader in the website, doesn't allow for long leader high sticking, and there will always be an issue with the flyline dropping the leader onto the water. The long leader allows you to high stick the full leader, and cast only the length leader that you need, out of the rod tip, to both lift over currents, and to be in direct contact.

    Regarding the Maxima ultra green, I don't use it, so I don't have enough experience to pass judgement, but check its stiffness. It might need to be boiled. You need a very supple mono for these leaders, and I use DoubleX Platinum pluss... and I swear by it, in diameter, suppleness, and strength.
    Quote Originally Posted by Cormo_rant View Post
    Thanks again
    I see in the link youve posted the leader is more simplified and shorter.For the mono id use maxima ultragreen.
    When fishing these leaders you basically cast the leader as the fly line stays on the reel?Is that a correct assumption?
    Last edited by Andre; 12-10-15 at 10:46 AM.
    Disclaimer.... none of my posts are intended to be "expert advice"..just opinions from someone who is willing to help where he can.

  2. #12
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    Andre im not sure exactly what you saying here "then step down to 6 and 6x with sections as long as you can get away with"
    Do you boil your double X?

  3. #13
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    Sorry, I think I meant 5X and 6X. When I say "as long as you can get away with", I basically mean, that you must experiment with different lengths of the terminal tippets, to achieve the best results. Obviously you want them as long as possible, but they need to be manageable.
    No I don't boil the Double X Platinum Plus. it's limp enough.
    Quote Originally Posted by Cormo_rant View Post
    Andre im not sure exactly what you saying here "then step down to 6 and 6x with sections as long as you can get away with"
    Do you boil your double X?
    Disclaimer.... none of my posts are intended to be "expert advice"..just opinions from someone who is willing to help where he can.

  4. #14
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    Andre should the point fly on this leader be the heaviest and the dropper lighter?WHich fly usually gets the fish?

  5. #15
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    On the long leader, its probably better for the point fly to have slightly more weight. I don't fish with anything heavier than a 2mm tungsten bead, otherwise I find that it disturbs the drift. you will need to experiment. Its a two fly leader setup, and distance between the flies is about 50 cm. I have the dropper fly on a tag of about 15 cm. Either fly will catch fish, but if you go too heavy, you will get poor drifts. You don't have a "control" fly as such, your control comes from the technique that you use to work the leader and the drifts. Most casts are made upstream at an angle, and the drift is managed by swinging the flies accross and down, while drawing in the leader to accommodate the flies as they came close to you when they pass, and letting out leader as they drift away, while always keeping the leader above the water surface so that you stay in direct contact with the flies. The rod should be held as upright as possible to enable the rod tip to detect the slightest touch. You will learn to recognise the different feel of a touch on the rocks, and a touch from a fish..As I say, I have given you my ideal setup, but you will find your own comfort zone in time and experience. Remember to cast nice open loops.
    Quote Originally Posted by Cormo_rant View Post
    Andre should the point fly on this leader be the heaviest and the dropper lighter?WHich fly usually gets the fish?
    Disclaimer.... none of my posts are intended to be "expert advice"..just opinions from someone who is willing to help where he can.

  6. #16
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    As you answer more of my questions i seem to come up with more.Hope you dont mind helping me out?
    Surely the coiled sighter is watched as a strike indicator so subtle takes can be detected?

  7. #17
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    I have no problem with as meny questions as you like, you may fire away.
    Yes the coiled indicator can detect takes, but it is only one of the stimuli that you will rely on. the best by far, is your intuition and sense of touch, which you will hone over time. It also takes practice to use a coil. I personally don't use a coil, as the short length of UV mono with a couple of drops of UV fly paint works better for me. I would encourage you to find your own best practice. there are so many different types of indicators and they all have their merits. You will need to become reliant on touch, because if your indicator is 30 feet away from you, and suspended in the air as it sometimes is, your detection will need to be from another source.
    Quote Originally Posted by Cormo_rant View Post
    As you answer more of my questions i seem to come up with more.Hope you dont mind helping me out?
    Surely the coiled sighter is watched as a strike indicator so subtle takes can be detected?
    Disclaimer.... none of my posts are intended to be "expert advice"..just opinions from someone who is willing to help where he can.

  8. #18
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    To add my 2c to this discussion:
    The French technique is difficult to learn. Take the time to practice a LOT - accurate casts, effective drift control and bite detection will all take time to figure out.
    When you are learning, have only around 15-20' of line out, control is obviously easier with less line. And try stand somewhere higher than the bottom of the water you're fishing (like on a knee deep rock if you're fishing waist deep water) as this gives you more height above the water and thus better control.
    For the coil itself: I find a super-thin coil works better. i.e. make your coil by wrapping the line around an earbud or toothpick rather than a pencil.

  9. #19
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    Yes, all good advice, one thing more to mention, is to learn the high stick technique effectively. RE the coil... go as thin as possible. Even thinner than a toothpick, I use a sewing needle to wrap the mono around, not only for the thinness of it, but also the fat part of the needle is a good holding place, and the eye on the point secures the mono nicely. I thread the coloured mono through the eye, and wind it backwards towards my fingers that are holding the needle, otherwise I hold it in the fly tying vise.
    Quote Originally Posted by Circus View Post
    To add my 2c to this discussion:
    The French technique is difficult to learn. Take the time to practice a LOT - accurate casts, effective drift control and bite detection will all take time to figure out.
    When you are learning, have only around 15-20' of line out, control is obviously easier with less line. And try stand somewhere higher than the bottom of the water you're fishing (like on a knee deep rock if you're fishing waist deep water) as this gives you more height above the water and thus better control.
    For the coil itself: I find a super-thin coil works better. i.e. make your coil by wrapping the line around an earbud or toothpick rather than a pencil.
    Disclaimer.... none of my posts are intended to be "expert advice"..just opinions from someone who is willing to help where he can.

  10. #20
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    The other thing that you going to have to learn, is to make open loop casts with the leader. If you aren't used to this , you are going to struggle initially, but persevere, its not too difficult. A 10 foot rod with a suitable action will be a great benefit.
    Disclaimer.... none of my posts are intended to be "expert advice"..just opinions from someone who is willing to help where he can.

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