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Thread: shimano ultegra fly 34 - sbs reel service

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2014

    Default shimano ultegra fly 34 - sbs reel service

    1. DSC_0563.jpg
    this is how she looks, not a bad reel but a little heavy. start by inscrewing the drag knob screw, remember it unscrews clockwise
    2. DSC_0565(1).jpg
    the drag knob is unscrewed by hand from the reel frame and after removing the drag knob, i noticed inside a little filing but no visual damage to either thread
    3. DSC_0566(1).jpg
    sequence - drag knob screw, 2x washers and drag knob
    inside the drag knob i found a plastic washer, seperating is not a go idea as it is glued to the knob but i forced out and had some serious cleaning. this plastic washer works with the click pin found on the frame
    remove click pin with spring under along with coned disc springs (3x coned washers) and the plastic drag spring spacer
    sequence - click pin with spring, 3x coned springs "()(" and plastic drag spring spacer
    now take out 3x drag press pins
    turn the reel frame around and lets start with main shaft, about half way down the shaft you have to remove the "c" lock washer. be careful here, its a bit tricky as this "c" lock sits inside an encased washer (aka main shaft washer "a"). making it difficult to get hold of and (as i did) some damage could be done to the lip of the washer. remove another washer made of copper (aka main shaft washer "b") after the first one and lastly the inner tube
    sequence - "c" lock, main shaft washer "a", main shaft washer "b" and roller clutch inner tube
    now lift out the drag plate, shown here up-side-down, attached to it is another plastic washer, works with the click pin that sits insidethe drag washer assembly
    sequence - drag plate, drag washer "a" (looks like its from graphite), drag washer "b" (steel) and lastly the click pin with washer
    to remove the main shaft from the frame you will need a tiny spanner, something like a 4 or 5, but because i dont have such tool i left in the frame, took the pic to show the two flat sides at the bottom of the shaft, (christmas must come fast now, i have a long list of tools that need.)
    now lets grab the spool, start on the main shaft side. unscrew the tiny capped screw that holds the ar-bearing and pull out the ar-bearing holder
    sequence - roller clutch screw, roller clutch (ar-bearing) and roller clutch holder
    after having the previous pic done i notice a plastic bush, schucks i think i'm gonna order a proper bearing to replace the plastic
    with the spool turned around, unscrew the spool cover, there is that ugly plastic bush (wanna be a bearing)
    turn the spool cover over to get to the spool lock and spool lock spring. i hope up to now you have been throwing these little parts into a container, easy to loose these tiny pieces
    sequence - 2x spool cover srews (pretty long ones), spool locking spring, spool lock and spool cover
    remove spool bush ("wanna be bearing" out. then unscrew 4x screws, yep this spool comes apart. take notice how these screws are layed out for later
    there we go, spool in halves
    damn, i have to leave the foot on, one of the foot srews sat tight on the frame and i have cause some damage here, will ask engineering to help me out.
    lets start putting it all back together. please keep in mind, all the screwing, moving parts receive oil or grease, dont know why but its fun anyways. here i have put the two halves together, notice the 4x cscrew arrangement. the 4x scews received a dab of corrosion x via a ear bud (to control the amount of and easily removes excess oil)
    push in the spool bushing
    assemble the spool lock with spool lock spring under the spool cover and oil with corrosion x ( i first spray corrosion x into a small tupperware then with a toothpick ot match stick i transfer little drops of oil onto areas or parts that need protection or lubrication), then screw the spool cover with the screws (dabbed with corrosion x)
    turn the spool around and fit the roller clutch holder with roller clutch bearing, tighten down with screw. bearing was corrosion x'ed
    off to the frame, corrosion x the inside and main shaft
    now the drag washer "b" comes in after a coating of oil, note the hole positions, the screw driver points the position of clicker (the drag washer has an elongated slot)
    brush on drag grease on both sides of drag washer and insert it over the main shaft and twist to match hole arrangement below, notice i have already (i'm fast) inserted the click pin with spring into the drag assembly for ease of work (stops the drag waasher from moving about)
    the drag plate with the plastic washer attached goes in over the main shaft
    remove excess grease and oil
    next item is the roller clutch inner tube, oiled internally and oil main shaft
    folled by main shaft washer "b" (copper), then main shaft washer "a" with the "c" clip afterwards, dab these washer with oil
    off to the back of the reel frame, insert the drag press pin (3 off), note the thinner side or reduced side of the pin goes in first, if they dont sit in properly you need to by hand twist the drag housing until the holes match up looking from from behind the reel frame (as per pic)
    drop in the lcick pin with spring into its hole and drop in the plastic drag spring spacer (note this spring has an groove on one side, face this side onto the 3 drag press pins
    insert the three coned disc drags, the layout from outside to inside " ( ) ( "
    throw over the drag knob and screw it in until the main shaft thread protrudes the drag knob, dab with oil
    drop in the 2x washers
    screw in the drag knob screw, and yes, anti clockwise to tighten
    because there was no way ii could pull the spool handle off, and because it turned with out any feel of grit or debris i dropped some muti and wiped off excess after the oil had penetrated through the gaps
    complete and ready for reeling that bus, notice a major difference on smoothness and extra drag

    the following pic showing glue, DSC_0585(1).JPG
    after washing all me parts, the every first thing i tackled was the plastic washer i had forced out of the drag knob, although the manufacturer supplied two drilled holes that receives two nipple/pin like things on the plastic washer to prevent the washer from spinning, they added glue. we too, i gave it some super glue wahahahaha
    Last edited by dollar; 21-02-16 at 06:47 PM.

  2. #2


    Thanks for sharing and taking the time to do this step by step.
    100 000 0000 and 6 Megawatt points to you.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2014


    thanks ET and will do it again, normally for my spare fly fishing time is spent tying and cleaning rods, was nice to do something different. i never gave my freshwater reels the attention they needed (as per the above) besides cleaning the line, cleaning the outside of reel and dabbing oil to the main shaft. after opening it to the extent i did (since purchasing the reels sometime ago), was happy to know they were still in a good shape but did require the full overhaul. the reel feels newer than new and at the end of it all, i have the confidence feeling in the reel for outtings to come, something i overlooked/forgot or never felt in the past when fishing with that reel.
    another thing, for that is, the appreciation of the design/engineering of the build by the manufacturer and you add your personal thoughts were improvements can be done, such as, the plastic bush could be replaced by a bearing. the reduction in weight of the reel (just to much solid plates there) and in doing the weight reduction, the drying time of line and backing will be much better.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2010


    Thanks for taking the time to post some new content. We need more of this.
    Bryan Williams

    “My Biggest worry is that my wife will sell my fishing gear for what I said I paid for it!”

    Check out my albums


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