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Thread: making your own welded loop on fly line

  1. #11
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    now here comes the weld, start on the other end, apply heat while twisting with your pinchers, keep your eyes peeled for any change, you will start to see the fly line plastic melt and it will mostly start to twist, actually you will feel the line softening while twisting with your pinchers, so be carefull to not twist out of sink, twist forwards and backwards at the same time with both pinchers and do not pull the pinchers apart but hold them in a position at all time.
    Attachment 26244

  2. #12
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    i quickly drop the melted splice onto the table top and gently roll it with my finger. this will happen a few times because you want an even rounded weld and because you can only melt the line in encriments of about a centimeter at a time, maybe with a heat gun you can melt the entire splice at one go, dont know
    Attachment 26245

  3. #13
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    continue the process until you have reach your desired loop size
    Attachment 26246

  4. #14
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    now cool down the well, i stuck it into my mouth quickly and blow onto the weld, then by feel, i was happy it had cooled off so it was time to remove the heat shrink, i carefully inserted the one point of the scissor between the line and heat shrink and cut tiny strokes along the length of tube, a small bit of pressure helped to move the scissors point along but making sure i didnt stab into the fly line, take your time now.
    Attachment 26247

  5. #15
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    you can try to pull the heat shrink off after making a slit, i tried and it only tore over a small length and then the heat shrink overlapped or rolled over it self, so i continued with scissor
    Attachment 26248

  6. #16
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    to make things quick, i turn to the other end with the scissor
    Attachment 26249

  7. #17
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    after removing the heat shrink, i was quite happy with the proceedure, after all, i knew it was working well because of the transparecy of the tube. the weld remained supple when folded, unchanged in colour, fairly thin through out and strong.
    Attachment 26250

    please do add...

  8. #18
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    This is very interesting. have you tried using a hair dryer in place of the candle? is this loop to attach the leader line?
    Doug Larson said, "If people concentrated on the really important things in life, there'd be a shortage of fishing poles."

  9. #19
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    good question Jason vL, i dont know but with a try. i'm not sure a blow dryer would have the necessary heat to melt the plastic (although i have smelt burning hair before). maybe it will work better and in a more controlled manner, what i mean is the heat coming off the blower is lower than a candle but if held long enough it would melt the plastic. the research i did was short and sweet, candles and heat guns was as far as i got to. next time i'll sneak the wife's tools into the garage hehehehe and give a try, thanks for the idea.
    loops on the fly line is to easily attach leaders via a loop to loop connection. many do struggle with knots, others regularly change leaders and cut the old knot to re-tie, this reduces the fly line. also some pull to hard to set the knot and strip the plastic coating in the process, some knots are to long and tend to bend/kink the tip of the line. i'm a big fan of building my tapered leaders with various line thicknesses, tying a nail knot for me is pretty easy because i only a small length of butt section to build the knot, instead of a nail or a specific tool i use a tooth pick and only give the knot a three or four turn, this makes a very small knot and there is hardly any waste on the fly line (trimming the tag end). also, a loop on the back end of the fly line helps to connect the fly line to the backing easily, especially when you want to change lines (floating/sinking/intermediate) for the conditions you need to fish. this eliminates the need to carry or purchase additional spools to hold different lines. the loop to loop is a strong connection and needs to be connected correctly with either loop not folding back onto it self. i found this pic on the web
    loop_to_loop_knot_2.jpg
    Last edited by dollar; 06-04-17 at 09:33 AM.

  10. #20
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    thanks Dollar

    I have a much better understanding now. in that case maybe a low wattage soldering iron would work better. the heat may be a little easier to control and apply where you need it. you are basically plastic welding the loop in place. personally I feel that loops can rip guides off the rod specially the tip eye. (Salt water experience) i am aware that the knot needs to be past the first guide however I have seen when the line sometimes slips back down some guys just cast it back out. knots can give you a much lower profile on the line.
    Doug Larson said, "If people concentrated on the really important things in life, there'd be a shortage of fishing poles."

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