Angle between thread holder and blank ?

[ebf]

Could the builders (Mario, Michael, Shaun, Kevin, Rudolph etc) pls comment on what angle you prefer (and why) between the thread holder and the blank ? I had a look at Neil's setup yesterday, but would like to listen to as many opinions as possible.

Is your thread holder below or above the blank ? I am assuming it is mostly behind the blank ?

What is the angle ? 0 / 45 / 90 degrees ?

Any other factors to consider when assembling the thread holder ?

My current intention is to use a threadbar setup (one bobbin on either side), with spring & washer tensioners. Also tensioning devices as described inthe Art Sheck book, and shown in Michael's rod building stand. I am planing on using a couple of strands of piano wire and small tip-tops for each.

[smallstreams.co.za]

Eben, I wind by hand and don't use a stand/wrapper at all.

If I have to say, I'd probably guess that it has to be at an 90° angle to the blank. This way you would not struggle to see the thread as it goes onto the blank. Anything under over over this angle would make the thread go "under" the blank. That's off course if your bench/wrapper is of such a height that you'd look "down" onto the whole setup.

So, I guess it's a relation on bench/wrapper height as well.

[ShaunF]

Hi Eben,

I've only built 3 rods, so I'd be inclined to rather listen to the guys with more experience than anything I have to say. I also built all my rods on a rather make-shift wrapping stand compared to what I've seen other guys using.

Nevertheless, for what it's worth, my thread holder (tying bobbin) was below the blank. I'd move the bobbin to different points along the stand, relative to the position of the guide or ferrule I was wrapping. I found it worked best if the thread was more or less perpendicular to the blank. Never used any other forms of providing thread tension so I can't comment on that.

Cheers,

Shaun

[Rendier]

Not much experience here either, but I've been making the first few turns by hand(above the stand) and then move down to the stand. My thread holder is in front of the stand and then run back to through the sliding clip and to the blank. I've tried running the thread under the blank and over the blank. Both are fine, but I prefer the thread runnning under the blank.

Jeepers, this sounds much more complicated than it really is!

[NeilRowe]

Could the builders (Mario, Michael, Shaun, Kevin, Rudolph etc) pls comment on what angle you prefer (and why) between the thread holder and the blank ? I had a look at Neil's setup yesterday, but would like to listen to as many opinions as possible.

Is your thread holder below or above the blank ? I am assuming it is mostly behind the blank ?

What is the angle ? 0 / 45 / 90 degrees ?

Any other factors to consider when assembling the thread holder ?

My current intention is to use a threadbar setup (one bobbin on either side), with spring & washer tensioners. Also tensioning devices as described inthe Art Sheck book, and shown in Michael's rod building stand. I am planing on using a couple of strands of piano wire and small tip-tops for each.

I find that an angle of 83.58 degrees is optimum

[Korrie]

Neil
I prefer to have the thread on the rod at a larger angle than square more beneficial.
The thread seems to slide easier on the blank. It is also easier move the thread when it is at an open angle. The angle below 90 degrees "pinches" the blank. I measured my angle at 97,43 .
Maybe you should build another rod with my dimensions. You will probaly find that it is much neater.

[NeilRowe]

Korrie

Depends which axes you are using and which way you are viewing the end of the rod from (left hand or right hand). My angle is 6.42 of the vertical (90) and yours is 7.43. The difference is thus 1.01 degrees (in all probability). I am building 4 rods tonight and I will adjust my scromemeter by 1.01 degress and assess the resultant thread packing and compaction. BTW, where can I find a scromemeter that has a scale in radians? I far prefer radians to degrees.

[Korrie]

You will find by opening the angle on the rod, the tension is a lot less on the blank. With less pressure being exerted on the blank, the stress on the carbon or bamboo fibres are less. You will now be able to apply more pressure on the blank/rod when playing the fish, without the carbon blank "exploding"
or the bamboo rod snapping.
The added advantage is that you will have to repair less rods and have more time to fish.
That is if you are more into fishing, but if you are one of those guys/pro's who fish for the image and want to brag about how many rods/ blanks have been replaced by the life time garuantee manufacturers, well, above info will be absolutly useless.

[smallstreams.co.za]

And THAT'S why I wrap by hand!

[Korrie]

And THAT'S why I wrap by hand!

But then you have no control over the angle of the thread, as it is wrapped onto the rod blank.
The thread will be wrapped with inconsistent angles onto the blank. The forces applied onto the carbon fibres will not be equally dispersed into the tubelar structure of the blank, which will lead to blanks exploding.