2 weight build

[Morne]

I'm finally (and nervously I might add) starting this build. After nearly having three heart attacks fitting peaces together I got off to a start, so Ill now start all the stupid questions. Roland, feel free to add some of your own as you go along.

So far I have only located the spine and I hope I got this right at least. Have also made up the bushes to make the real seat fit properly and reamed out the cork for a snug fit. Also fitted the tip top. Now here is some pics of everything assembled but not yet glued together.

Firstly on the winding check: Does the little tapered side face towards the tip top or toward and inside the cork grip? I'm sure I read somewhere that you can wrap some thread under the winding check to center it correctly. Is this correct?



Second: Do you push the blank all the way down the reel seat until it stops against the end cap?

Thirdly: I know you guys say to make an inlet into the cork to fit the reel seat. I don't have any fancy tools, etc, so is this how it then is supposed to fit? Is it better to slightly round the edges of the cork grip?

Is it correct that the little O-ring on the locking ring faces towards the front of the blank?





I guess the next step will be to epoxy everything together.

[Michael]

Hi Morne

Don't be so nervous...you're actually doing fine!

1st: The tapered side of the winding check must face the tip top. The biggest part of the winding check must be against the cork. Yours is correct. Don't wrap any thread under it. In fact, when you glue the grip on the blank...then take a TINY spec of glue and put it on the cork where the check will press against. Then press it against the cork, and centre it by sight. Ideally...you don't want the check's I.D. to touch the blank at all. When you put your hook-keeper on, the thread holding it's foot will push against the check, and then the finish will go over that thread. This will all secure the check to the blank and grip even more.

2nd: You push the blank in, so far that the tip-section is just as long as the butt section. Make sense? Ideally, you want all 4 sections (when finished) to be the same length. So test fit the reel seat and grip on the butt section, and see how far yuo must push it in so that the butt section, is the same length as the tip section (with the tip-top on).

3rd: The reel seat is fine as you have it. You do not have to inlet the grip at all. In fact, I think it looks good like that. It will save you a lot of frustration too, and possible chipping of the grip, making it too thin, off-centre, etc etc. Leave it as is, it's good!

4th: The little o-ring on the lock-ring must face forward towards the grip, yes. This helps to secure the reel-seat, but also prevents it from sticking once you want to remove the reel from the rod.

Read the tutorial here: http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/showt...?t=1716&page=3
for info on the gluing.

Just take it slow and think about what you do...you'll be fine! It's going to look awesome.

Mike

[Morne]

Thanks Mike

Just checked the length of the sections and the top with tip top is exactly the same length as the bud section. The two middle sections are about 5mm shorter than that.

I have that tutorial of yours permanently open one one of my computer screens Some excellent info there thanks.

[rols]

how tight is the fit once you've made the masking tape bushes. i still have a bit of play or must it be pretty snug?

[Michael]

how tight is the fit once you've made the masking tape bushes. i still have a bit of play or must it be pretty snug?

They must fit nice and snug, but not so tight that the masking tape bunches up as you try and insert it into the reelseat. Just less than than...but also, there must be no "play".

[rols]

Thanks Mike

[Michael]

cool Rols...can't wait to see you guys finish the rods!

[smallstreams.co.za]

Mornings Morne

Firstly on the winding check: Does the little tapered side face towards the tip top or toward and inside the cork grip? I'm sure I read somewhere that you can wrap some thread under the winding check to center it correctly. Is this correct?

Yes, you can wrap some thread under the check. This will do 2 things.

a) It will ensure that the check stays centered in relation to the blank, something which is difficult to do when you have some play.

b) The flexcoat (or finish) will seep a little under the check into the thread under it, securing it totally. It will also make a awesome little "step" from the check's edge to the level of the thread on the blank, assuming there would be thread going past the check.

Second: Do you push the blank all the way down the reel seat until it stops against the end cap?

Leave a 1mm max gap if possible

Thirdly: I know you guys say to make an inlet into the cork to fit the reel seat. I don't have any fancy tools, etc, so is this how it then is supposed to fit? Is it better to slightly round the edges of the cork grip?

This is personal preference, and just affects the look of the rod, nothing else. Expect of course length of the butt section, as the entire seat will now move up the blank by the amount of inletting you do.

I use a Dremel Tool/Hobbyist Tool. They cost about R300 at Makro or alike. Great tool to have. Shaving guide feet, inletting cork, cutting blanks - I cannot work without this tool.

If you do not have such a tool, I'd rather leave it. You need a HIGH speed device. Some guys use a drill bit, but that rips the cork, something I would not suggest.

Wrt rounding, once again purely visual - what looks nice to you is what you do.

Is it correct that the little O-ring on the locking ring faces towards the front of the blank?

100% perfect!!

Looking good so far Morne!!

[smallstreams.co.za]

how tight is the fit once you've made the masking tape bushes. i still have a bit of play or must it be pretty snug?

Roland, try and get dry-walling instead of masking tape. The epoxy penetrates the drywalling tape (perforated) making for a far stronger bond. Since I received this tip I have not used masking tape at all anymore.

[rols]

Roland, try and get dry-walling instead of masking tape. The epoxy penetrates the drywalling tape (perforated) making for a far stronger bond. Since I received this tip I have not used masking tape at all anymore.

Thanks Mario
Do you cut narrower strips out of the dry walling tape or do you use it wide like the pic?
I must say reading Art Sheck's book has eased my nervousness a lot with his
candid way of explaining things and constant referrals to " This is not rocket science" I think the big drawback for us is the fact that if we bugger up, we can't just pop in and get a new grip, we have to order again from overseas. I'm basically doing the bits I can now and the next step is to ream the cork. Last night I found the spline without too much ado. (alcohol free) for once Tonight I want to try measure where the guides must go. (I suppose I'm waiting to see what curve balls Morne encounters first )
If he accidently trips me tomoro on our fishing session, then I know why)
Thanks for the help guys, this is only the start of Question hour