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Thread: What 12w line?

  1. #11
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    The only other thing worth considerring is the breaking strain of the core - snapping fly lines becomes a reality on a 12wt if you'reusing mega drag and over-rated tippets.
    Check your knots!

  2. #12
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    60lb on the Airflo, 70lb on the Rio.

    I suppose as you're fishing from a boat fishing with hectique tippets won't really be the modus operandi.
    "Hierdie drol het baie vlieë" - Ago 2014.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scythe View Post
    Then you have one of the old ~38M ones.

    Dont matter much as I cut my lines shorter to eliminate drag

    /d
    What ever you do never confuse Fishing With catching Fish !!!!
    Fish Are Friends Not Food

    But your reasoning has a fatal flaw; it overlooks the fact that to comprehend it requires that one rub a few brain cells against each other. The heat thus generated produces the light that illuminates the fact, but alas, not everybody has the resource required to fuel the process --SG

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by damage View Post
    Dont matter much as I cut my lines shorter to eliminate drag
    Be that as it may the point I was trying to make is that if you have the one where the weld was visible/distinguishable from the rest of the running line then it was one of the older ones, the 40Plus also had that problem.

    Anyways, you say you cut it shorter, but then what do you retrieve on when fishing deep water like +20M, your backing or don't you guys fish that deep in the WC or do you not fish down close to the reefs just in depths of water above it ?
    "Hierdie drol het baie vlieë" - Ago 2014.

  5. #15
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    ahh yes its and older line circa 2004

    The line needs to be as long as you need
    I think 30 m its the maximum you can effectively utilize in the WC or in SA in that fact due to the conditions

    Longer offshore lines only have ONE advantage in my book and that is the relief of seeing your backing knot back on the reel so once you trust your Knots and backing it looses its appeal


    The Serious Negatives are Drag , more drag Twisting and Space Wasting with Tangles and line jams being Fatal


    /d
    What ever you do never confuse Fishing With catching Fish !!!!
    Fish Are Friends Not Food

    But your reasoning has a fatal flaw; it overlooks the fact that to comprehend it requires that one rub a few brain cells against each other. The heat thus generated produces the light that illuminates the fact, but alas, not everybody has the resource required to fuel the process --SG

  6. #16
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    The advice that Damage has given is good!

    Go the T-14 heads.
    They sink quickly and relatively uniformly, and you are able to start stripping quickly once the cast has been made. The T-14 has a very thin diameter. Negligible line drag in water and able to fish the different water columns easily.
    36 foot heads are optimal, but I have found 40 foot heads work well in my application for the 12 weight setup. This is uplined-
    My running line is hollow core dacron straight to backing. Cheap and effective and still able to hang onto the running line.

    As has already been suggested, Rio Leviathan lines are also excellent.
    The majority of my fishing is offshore fly.

    Catching snoek or barracouta as they are worshipped in NZ isn't difficult.

    Last edited by Kevin James; 12-05-09 at 02:13 AM. Reason: Adding something.

  7. #17
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    You say barracouta we say Snoek when you need to be larney its a
    "Kalk Bay SailFish"



    One last thing on the t14 is it comes on a large spool cant read the label on mine its worn off but im not sure it was 100 meters or yards any way enough for LOTS of shooting heads my spool is from the ark and I haven't got to the end yet.

    My spool was around R350 I think they around R600-R700 now and a few spools of 100m Gudebrod braid at R100 each

    will make at least 5-8 lines for about R1000

    If you club in with a few guys it will make lines super cheap
    or bite the bullet and have shooting heads for life

    /d
    What ever you do never confuse Fishing With catching Fish !!!!
    Fish Are Friends Not Food

    But your reasoning has a fatal flaw; it overlooks the fact that to comprehend it requires that one rub a few brain cells against each other. The heat thus generated produces the light that illuminates the fact, but alas, not everybody has the resource required to fuel the process --SG

  8. #18
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    I love that pic denton! still can't believe that fish closed his mouth two times before we got this shot. And this wasn't on a 12wt, that was on a 8wt!
    Photography Rules!
    www.dewaldkirsten.co.za

  9. #19
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    Eish, nice pic, lots of teeth everywhere.

    Damage's set-up sounds best for offshore work, you probably do not need to go for anything bigger than 10wt for snoek considering their size(maybe even longfin). We use similar for light work (up to 10wt) up north, but sometimes replace the 35lb Gudebod of Cortland braided running line with a 25-30lb Suffix Elite Mono running line. Casts like a bomb, but line mangement can be issue if not you're not prepared. But bonus is the better sink rate vs the braid.

    For a T14 or leadcore the ideal 10wt set-up would be 30-35ft(about 400gr)head and 100ft running line. For 12 wt I will increase to 40ft head (equalls about 500gr) + running line of 100ft as well.

    Rio has launched a T-17 line with sink rate of 10ips vs the T-14 at 9ips. Both cores test the same at 35lbs. Both available in 500ft spool and 30ft lenghts if I am not mistaken from Jandi (the Explorer guys).

  10. #20
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    Personally, I am not happy with the T14 from a breakage point of view. Have snapped it several times. They may be fine in the W Cape though - no GT's there...
    Maybe I pull too hard, but I don't believe in giving GT's any excuse to get near reef -
    Leviathon and depth finders break far less ...
    "Haauw, in the mouth"

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