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Thread: Rod grip needs fixing

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default Rod grip needs fixing

    Hi Guys,

    The glue between two of the pieces of cork on one of my rods has "Loosened".
    It is right on the position where i place my thumb on the grip when casting, so no prizes for figuring out what caused the problem. It is just irritating to have the front part of the grip loose from the rest of the grip.

    Both pieces of cork are perfect so is there any way that I can just successfully glue them back together without having to put a whole new grip on the rod?

    Lata
    G
    "So here’s my point. Don’t go and get your ego all out of proportion because you can tie a fly and catch a fish that’s dumb enough to eat a car key.." - Louis Cahill - Gink and Gasoline

  2. #2
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gkieser View Post
    Hi Guys,

    The glue between two of the pieces of cork on one of my rods has "Loosened".
    It is right on the position where i place my thumb on the grip when casting, so no prizes for figuring out what caused the problem. It is just irritating to have the front part of the grip loose from the rest of the grip.

    Both pieces of cork are perfect so is there any way that I can just successfully glue them back together without having to put a whole new grip on the rod?

    Lata
    G
    Hi Grant

    Ponal's waterproof wood-glue will suffice. Put a layer between the cork pieces, as far in as you can. Use a needle and work it in.
    Then you will need to clamp the two cork sections of the handle together, to put a little pressure on the cork pieces, in order for the glue to set properly.
    Once it's clamped, wipe the excess glue off with your finger and a damp cloth.

    You can make a clamp by using two pieces of wood with holes drilled through, where it can move over the blank and hook keeper and push against the front of the grip. Then use the other wood piece and put it against the back of the reel seat.
    Then to clamp the pieces together so they move towards each other, you can put in one threaded rod through each side of the pieces of wood. Then bopa them equally until you have some pressure on the cork pieces.

    Something like this...just modify the design slightly so the butt end goes though the one piece of plank, and the rod goes through other piece of plank.



    Hope this helps.

    regards
    Mike

  3. #3
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    Default

    Thanks Mike!

    That is exactly what I am looking for. How long would it take for that glue to set before it's safe to use the rod again?

    Is ponals readily available at hardware stores?

    Cheers
    G
    "So here’s my point. Don’t go and get your ego all out of proportion because you can tie a fly and catch a fish that’s dumb enough to eat a car key.." - Louis Cahill - Gink and Gasoline

  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gkieser View Post
    Thanks Mike!

    That is exactly what I am looking for. How long would it take for that glue to set before it's safe to use the rod again?

    Is ponals readily available at hardware stores?

    Cheers
    G
    Hi Grant

    Yes, that Ponal glue is available at any hardware store. You can buy small bottles...120ml. You could even use Ponal "extra strong" wood glue, also small 120ml bottle. It's a red and black plastic bottle. (Ponal is made by Pattex). They are available everywhere. Dries stronger than wood, and bonds cork really well too. Dries clear, another bonus.
    I've tried other makes etc...but this Ponal waterproof and Ponal extra strong wood glues are the best and easiest to use. And not expensive at all.

    Total bond strentgh is reached after 24 hours. You can handle it (remove clamp) after 4 hours...but I'd just leave it overnight, just to be sure.
    Be careful not to clamp too hard...so you damage or tear the front cork of the grip. Just enough to put pressure between the cork pieces. When the glue oozes out of the joint, it's sufficient pressure. Then wipe the excess glue off with a slightly damp papertowl. Not too wet...you don't want to wipe away the glue between the cork pieces.

    So after 24hrs you can go fish the rod again.

    Good luck...if you need other help shout!

    Cheers
    Mike

  5. #5
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    Default

    PS: You can't see it in the pic, but on the on side of the right-hand piece of wood, there are wing-nuts on the threaded rod that goes though either side, for ease of adjustment.
    You can get the threaded rod, wingnuts, and big flat washers at any hardware or even builders warehouse (builders warehouse keep those Ponal wood glues too).

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Pretoria Gangsters Paradise
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    Default

    Excellent thread and response, my rod grip did exactly the same thing this past weekend, just in the middle of the grip and I was worried I'd have to have a new grip put on.

    Thanks !
    "Hierdie drol het baie vlieë" - Ago 2014.

  7. #7
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    Western Province
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    Hi Mike

    Have you used Balcotan at all? It's the only glue I use nowadays. 60 minutes open time, one component, completely waterproof and sands down very well.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Conrad Botes View Post
    Hi Mike

    Have you used Balcotan at all? It's the only glue I use nowadays. 60 minutes open time, one component, completely waterproof and sands down very well.
    Hi Conrad

    Never used it before, don't know it. But will check it out...sounds interesting.

    When I glue just cork discs together, I use the Ponal waterproof or extra strong wood glues. It dries stronger than wood, and I've actually broken grips but they broke in the middle of the cork ring...not where it was glued! That says something...so I keep using it.

    However, if I'm gluing a custom grip...that has foam accent strips, wood strips, rubber cork discs, etc in the grip...or glueing an EVA foam disc to cork discs for the fighting butt....then I only use Epidermix 372 two-part epoxy glue. (The wood Ponal glue doesn't adhere the foam and cork together that well).
    The Epidermix is the business when is comes to adhesion and strength. I've seen no better epoxy glue.
    It's quite expensive but worth every penny.
    I use this for the rest of the rod build too, incidently...the reelseat, grip to blank, tip top, etc. Drying time is also 24hours...which is cool, as you can clean up and excess glue etc, line the parts up properly before it starts setting like normal 10minute epoxy glues.

    Cheers
    Mike
    Last edited by Michael; 15-07-09 at 11:35 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Conrad Botes View Post
    Hi Mike

    Have you used Balcotan at all? It's the only glue I use nowadays. 60 minutes open time, one component, completely waterproof and sands down very well.
    Conrad, Balcotan is an exceptionally strong wood glue, probably the only one to use if you are building a boat as it will not let go, but a little pricey....
    Peter

    Motivation is what gets you started. Habit is what keeps you going - Jim Ryun

    Let's keep it real..

  10. #10
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    Grant

    I have repaired cork related problems such as disbonding from the carbon blank etc by using a syringe plus needle filled with cynoacrylate (superglue). It is very watery and flows through the needle easily. It has worked for me and has left no mess.

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