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Thread: Oliver Edwards - Nymph Skin Caddis - Yellowfish

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Gauteng
    Posts
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    Default Oliver Edwards - Nymph Skin Caddis - Yellowfish

    Hi all

    In a recent post Shamwari asked me if I would do an SBS on Oliver Edwards' Nymph Skin Caddis. So here it is, it's not a slavish copy but close enough:

    Components:
    Hook - TMC2457 (or equivalent)
    Lead - Hareline sticky sheet lead, a strip about 1.5mm wide
    Tail - Natural grizzly hackle (OE uses a philoplume)
    Gills - Natural or grey dyed ostrich hearl)
    Body - Virtual Nymph nymph skin
    Legs - Golden or ringneck pheasant tail

    Step 1
    http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/attac...6&d=1255184299
    http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/attac...7&d=1255184299
    http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/attac...8&d=1255184299
    Cut a strip of sticky lead about 1.5mm wide and attach towards the rear of the hook. Using butting, not overlapping, turns wind the lead towards the eye of the hook. Leave about 2.00mm behind the eye of the hook and reverse the direction of the lead. Wind the lead back over the first layer of lead and finish 1 turn short of the beginning of the first layer of lead.

    Step 2
    http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/attac...9&d=1255184299
    Start your thread at the eye of the hook and wind it over the lead to the back of the hook.

    Step 3
    http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/attac...0&d=1255184299
    http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/attac...1&d=1255184299
    Tilt the hook downwards in the vice to make it easier to work at the back of the hook. Tie in the tail and remove the tag end. Cut the tail short leaving about 2.50mm.

    Step 4
    http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/attac...2&d=1255184299
    http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/attac...3&d=1255184299
    Cut off a section of about 5cm of nymph skin. Cut an angle at about 45 degrees effectively creating a long side and a short one. The long side will become the trailing edge when the nymph skin is palmered around the hook. Tie in the nymph skin a couple of millimeters above the tail. Stretch the nymph skin as you go and finish at the tail.

    Step 5
    http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/attac...4&d=1255184299
    Take 3 ostrich hearls and holding them together stroke the fibres back against the grain to fluff them out and tie them in under the hook by the tail.

    Step 6
    http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/attac...5&d=1255184299
    Leaving your bobbin at the tail and using moderate stretch on the nymph skin wind it forward using overlapping turns. Wind it all the way to the eye of the hook. As one approaches the eye of the hook increase the stretch on the nymph skin. Using another bobbin and keeping the tension on the nymph skin start the thread and trap the nymph skin. Cut off the tag end of the nymph skin, form a thread head and tie off with a whip finish or a couple of half hitches.
    Last edited by Sage; 10-10-09 at 06:14 PM.
    Fisherman - We're all born honest but we soon get over it!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Gauteng
    Posts
    134

    Default Oliver Edwards - Nymph Skin Caddis - Yellowfish (Part 2)

    Part 2

    Step 7
    http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/attac...6&d=1255186672
    Turn the fly upside down in the vice using the bobbin left at the back of the hook and following the segmentation created by the nymph skin tie in the gills (ostrich hearl) until you get to within 4 segments of the front of the fly. The legs will be tied into these segments. Trim off the excess ostrich hearl.

    Step 8
    http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/attac...7&d=1255186672
    http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/attac...8&d=1255186672
    http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/attac...9&d=1255186672
    http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/attac...0&d=1255186672
    http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/attac...1&d=1255186672
    http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/attac...2&d=1255186672
    Now it's time to tie in the legs. This is by far the most finicky part of tying this fly.

    Using either ringneck or golden pheasant tail remove a bunch of barbs by plucking them off at 90 degrees to the quill. DON'T PLUCK THEM OFF BY PULLING DOWNWARD Plucking them across the quill creates those neat little feet. (see images of golden and ringneck pheasant tails and the barbs. The ones on the left are ringneck pheasant. I used golden pheasant on this fly).

    Move the thread forward to the segment immediately in front of the gills and slip the first leg under the thread to the far side. Then slip the next one in next to the first one. Make sure all the feet are facing forwards or backwards. It's not really crucial which direction as long as they're facing in the same direction.

    Under slight pressure on the thread and tugging gently on the tag end of the leg pull it to the correct length. Do the same with the other leg. Then, apply pressure to the thread and this will raise the legs into position and move thread forward to the next segment and ready for the next set of legs. Trim of the tag end of the legs making sure you don't accidentally cut off the leg. Now, repeat the process and tie in the remaining 2 sets of legs. Once all the legs are in move the thread to the front of the fly, complete the thread head and tie off with a whip finish or half hitches.

    Note: Each set of legs is only held in with one turn of thread. Upon completion of the fly head cement must be applied to the base of the legs to lock them in and stop them falling out.

    Step 9
    http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/attac...3&d=1255186672 http://www.flytalk.co.za/forum/attac...4&d=1255186672
    Using an olive marker coat the body of the fly. Avoid getting marker ink on the gills. Then, using a black marker colour the head up to and including where the first set of legs are situated. Finally, place head cement on the thread head and at the base of the legs. You're done! Happy tying!!
    Last edited by Sage; 10-10-09 at 06:02 PM.
    Fisherman - We're all born honest but we soon get over it!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Durban
    Posts
    2,677

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sage View Post
    Hi all

    In a recent post Shamwari asked me if I would do an SBS on Oliver Edwards' Nymph Skin Caddis. So here it is, it's not a slavish copy but close enough:

    Components:
    Hook - TMC2457 (or equivalent)
    Lead - Hareline sticky sheet lead, a strip about 1.5mm wide
    Tail - Natural grizzly hackle (OE uses a philoplume)
    Gills - Natural or grey dyed ostrich hearl)
    Body - Virtual Nymph nymph skin
    Legs - Golden or ringneck pheasant tail

    Step 1



    Cut a strip of sticky lead about 1.5mm wide and attach towards the rear of the hook. Using butting, not overlapping, turns wind the lead towards the eye of the hook. Leave about 2.00mm behind the eye of the hook and reverse the direction of the lead. Wind the lead back over the first layer of lead and finish 1 turn short of the beginning of the first layer of lead.

    Step 2

    Start your thread at the eye of the hook and wind it over the lead to the back of the hook.

    Step 3


    Tilt the hook downwards in the vice to make it easier to work at the back of the hook. Tie in the tail and remove the tag end. Cut the tail short leaving about 2.50mm.

    Step 4


    Cut off a section of about 5cm of nymph skin. Cut an angle at about 45 degrees effectively creating a long side and a short one. The long side will become the trailing edge when the nymph skin is palmered around the hook. Tie in the nymph skin a couple of millimeters above the tail. Stretch the nymph skin as you go and finish at the tail.

    Fixed for Paul.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Durban
    Posts
    2,677

    Default


    Step 5

    Take 3 ostrich hearls and holding them together stroke the fibres back against the grain to fluff them out and tie them in under the hook by the tail.

    Step 6

    Leaving your bobbin at the tail and using moderate stretch on the nymph skin wind it forward using overlapping turns. Wind it all the way to the eye of the hook. As one approaches the eye of the hook increase the stretch on the nymph skin. Using another bobbin and keeping the tension on the nymph skin start the thread and trap the nymph skin. Cut off the tag end of the nymph skin, form a thread head and tie off with a whip finish or a couple of half hitches.
    Fixed for Paul

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Durban
    Posts
    2,677

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sage View Post
    Part 2

    Step 7

    Turn the fly upside down in the vice using the bobbin left at the back of the hook and following the segmentation created by the nymph skin tie in the gills (ostrich hearl) until you get to within 4 segments of the front of the fly. The legs will be tied into these segments. Trim off the excess ostrich hearl.

    Step 8






    Now it's time to tie in the legs. This is by far the most finicky part of tying this fly.

    Using either ringneck or golden pheasant tail remove a bunch of barbs by plucking them off at 90 degrees to the quill. DON'T PLUCK THEM OFF BY PULLING DOWNWARD Plucking them across the quill creates those neat little feet. (see images of golden and ringneck pheasant tails and the barbs. The ones on the left are ringneck pheasant. I used golden pheasant on this fly).

    Move the thread forward to the segment immediately in front of the gills and slip the first leg under the thread to the far side. Then slip the next one in next to the first one. Make sure all the feet are facing forwards or backwards. It's not really crucial which direction as long as they're facing in the same direction.

    Under slight pressure on the thread and tugging gently on the tag end of the leg pull it to the correct length. Do the same with the other leg. Then, apply pressure to the thread and this will raise the legs into position and move thread forward to the next segment and ready for the next set of legs. Trim of the tag end of the legs making sure you don't accidentally cut off the leg. Now, repeat the process and tie in the remaining 2 sets of legs. Once all the legs are in move the thread to the front of the fly, complete the thread head and tie off with a whip finish or half hitches.

    Note: Each set of legs is only held in with one turn of thread. Upon completion of the fly head cement must be applied to the base of the legs to lock them in and stop them falling out.
    Fixed for Paul.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Durban
    Posts
    2,677

    Default


    Step 9


    Using an olive marker coat the body of the fly. Avoid getting marker ink on the gills. Then, using a black marker colour the head up to and including where the first set of legs are situated. Finally, place head cement on the thread head and at the base of the legs. You're done! Happy tying!!
    Fixed for Paul.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Gauteng
    Posts
    134

    Default

    Thanx!!! Sorry, techno retard How did you do that?
    Fisherman - We're all born honest but we soon get over it!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Durban
    Posts
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    Default

    Easiest is to use an image hosting site like Photobucket.com. Upload them to the site, then copy the link provided, then when making a post, use the Insert Image button on the toolbar () and paste your link in the box provided.

    Very nicely tied fly by the way

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Gauteng
    Posts
    134

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ShaunF View Post
    Easiest is to use an image hosting site like Photobucket.com. Upload them to the site, then copy the link provided, then when making a post, use the Insert Image button on the toolbar () and paste your link in the box provided.

    Very nicely tied fly by the way
    Thanks and THANKS, much appreciated!!
    Fisherman - We're all born honest but we soon get over it!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Western Cape
    Posts
    7,524

    Default

    Wow, now theres some seriously unbelievable tying....
    Disclaimer.... none of my posts are intended to be "expert advice"..just opinions from someone who is willing to help where he can.

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