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Thread: Joe Blados Crease Fly

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Stilbaai
    Posts
    990

    Default Joe Blados Crease Fly

    Hi Guys,

    We will be transferring all the flies from the main site to the forum.


    Introduction

    It is just a matter of time before the Joe Blados Crease fly will feature in most salt water fly fishers fly boxes. This fly is a regular taker of both leerfish/garrick and elf/shad in Cape waters, probably in the same category as poppers and sliders.

    The Crease fly casts easy and also creates enough surface disturbance to draw predatory fish closer. Tied in different sizes and colours most bait fish can be imitated. The crease fly can be tied by sticking self adhesive foils to the foam. I’ve been using Balzer foil which is mainly used by spin fishermen and available at most general tackle shops. Apply a coat of epoxy or flex coat after the fly is finished since the foil will part with the foam over time. Use permanent markers to create different colours and effects.

    Recipe

    Hook: Mustad popper hook #1/0 - #3/0 or Tiemco 511S. Any long shank salt water hook can be used.
    Thread: 6/0
    Tail: Bucktail in conjunction with synthetics like Steve Farrar flash blend
    Body: Craft Foam 3mm - 5mm (from most craft shops)
    Flash: Flashabou

    Step1



    Use paper to make a template for the size and model of hook you are using. Place the hook on the paper and measure a rectangle of which the length is the same as the hook shank length, from a point just behind the hook eye to the bend of the hook. It should be approximately as wide as the hook gape, with the distance from A to B the same as the distance from B to C.

    Step 2


    Fold the template in half and place it over the hook shank, see above, where DE is at a right angle to the hook shank and FG is approximately from the point of the hook to the bend of the hook. This will ensure the hook gape is open for better hookups.

    Step 3



    Cut the paper along the lines DE and FG. A rounded belly can be formed between F and G.

    Step 4



    Once you are satisfied with the shape of the body, transfer the paper template to a material which is more rigid, like the plastic of an ice-cream container or card board. For future reference indicate on the template for which hook model and size it is used. Stick the tape on the craft foam and use a craft knife to cut the foam, using the template. The groove at the back is to accommodate the tail materials.

    Step 5



    Tie in the tail materials with flash between the bucktail, extending past the bucktail, creating a flashy tail. Cover the hookshank with thread, this ensures the foam sticks better to the hookshank.

    Step 6




    Start at the front, glueing the foam just underneath the shank by compressing the two sides of the foam together.


    Front view

    Step 7



    Apply stick on eyes and let the artist in you go bananas. Cover with a thin coat of epoxy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Parys, Free State
    Posts
    9,760

    Default Perfect bodies

    Riverroad creations sell a body cutter for theses type of patterns if anyone is interested or buy it from JS Fishing.They do 3 sizes afaik.

    Remember these?

    Thanks for the SBS Fish.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    667

    Default

    Well done mate....

    Some nice simple instructions in there for the Crease Fly.
    Good layout.

  4. #4
    Gaza Banned User

    Default Glue

    Any suggestions for glueing the 2 sections together, I have been using Zap a Gap , but it is a mission to get it to bond.
    And to be sure , are you aligning the bottom of the foam with the hook shank, which leaves the hollow tube on top of the shank...hope that makes sense.
    I have also seen some crease flies with a hole snipped into the top of the fly , close to the hook-eye side. Not sure what the point of this is....
    Thanks for sharing the pattern!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Stilbaai
    Posts
    990

    Default

    Hi Gaza,

    Ordinary Bostik Superglue Gel seems to work the best. The bottom part of the foam is glued together and to the hook shank, apart from the section at the back.

    Cheers

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    667

    Default

    Gaza,

    There is a neat trick I learned when tying these Crease Flies.

    You know you refer to that open space above the hook where the foam is glued......

    Anyhoo, in there - someone showed me to put a cigarette butt in there for flotation. Now, before you go rushing off and smoking up a storm, these cigarette butt things are for blokes that make their own rollies and can be bought separately. You know those little white things.
    When I first heard about it I thought these blokes here are a bit rough but then I saw the stuff they used and it all came together. Just seal this in with a bit of epoxy and Bob's your Aunty or as in this case Fat Murphy.......

    http://au.news.yahoo.com/a/-/world/6...n-crime-raid/3

    This is some funny stuff all right............

  7. #7
    Gaza Banned User

    Default

    Haa ha Ha , maybe we should then call the Smoking Aussie Crease!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    North of the boerewors curtain
    Posts
    2,106

    Default

    The whole at the top of the fly is to "tune" the plop - you can get a similar effect by adjusting the height of the hook eye relative to the hollow tube. By gluing the hook lower in the tube you get a bigger plop and by gluing it higher up a much smaller plop.

    Instead of stuffing the fly with a filter I use the little foam offcuts from shaping the fly.
    Check your knots!

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