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Thread: Non-Tapered Leaders

  1. #1
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    Default Non-Tapered Leaders

    I'm quite curious as to using equal diameter leaders for Stillwater fishing, most of my fly lines are connected to leaders with a loop-to-loop connection won't straight 0X-4X cut through a welded loop of a fly line.

    I can see the cost effectiveness of a straight leader and I'm not too worried about the turn over of the fly/flies since there are methods to aid it, but is there any other benefits to using straight leaders and what is the typical length of a straight leader that you would use for Stillwater?

  2. #2
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    Generally with still water fly fishing, and depending on how many flies you have on your leader, straight mono is more than adequate. It turns over perfectly. If you are fishing a small natural to surface fish in shallows, close up, where presentation might be an issue, then yes, go with a tapered leader. When fishing sub surface with three flies placed a meter or more apart, you have two to three meters between top fly and bottom fly, so its basically pointless to use a tapered leader.
    I have two rolls of mono, 600 meters each of Platinum plus, 5 and 7 pound, and I have been using mono from these rolls for several years, and there is still plenty.
    Regarding cutting through the loop, it shouldn't, but rather use a cats paw connection to the loop, or tie it with a clinch knot. A straight loop to flyline isn't ideal in my opinion.
    Last edited by Andre; 23-06-14 at 09:01 PM.
    Disclaimer.... none of my posts are intended to be "expert advice"..just opinions from someone who is willing to help where he can.

  3. #3
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    Andre: How are you connecting the straight mono to your fly line?

  4. #4
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    I have attached a braided loop , which many people don't like, but works for me, and I tie the mono with a normal clinch knot. The knot can be undone very easily to change leaders or fly line. The problem with a loop to fly line, comes when you need to make a change, you either have to cut the leader, or you have to pull the whole thing through, and when there are flies on, its a nightmare. Also one of the reasons why I use straight mono, If I take the leader off, I simply trash it. as its so easy to pull off a length of straight off the roll, tie od a couple of droppers, and hey... ready to rock. If they were bought tapered, would waste a fortune.
    Last edited by Andre; 23-06-14 at 09:15 PM.
    Disclaimer.... none of my posts are intended to be "expert advice"..just opinions from someone who is willing to help where he can.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the insight Andre

  6. #6
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    Sorry for budging in here, but what will you do when the fly line has a built in loop at the end of it?

    Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

  7. #7
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    That's called a "welded loop". you can use it like it is. I personally cut them off and tie a braided loop as I believe that they are better. For lighter lines, I cut them off and tie the leader on with a nail knot. Its a matter of choice, as there are advantages and disadvantages to keeping the welded loops.
    Quote Originally Posted by karoo View Post
    Sorry for budging in here, but what will you do when the fly line has a built in loop at the end of it?

    Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk
    Disclaimer.... none of my posts are intended to be "expert advice"..just opinions from someone who is willing to help where he can.

  8. #8
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    Ah thanks andre

    Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

  9. #9
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    No worries mate, anytime. You can use the search function to find out more about the knots, and if you need any more assistance, just ask.
    Quote Originally Posted by karoo View Post
    Ah thanks andre

    Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk
    Disclaimer.... none of my posts are intended to be "expert advice"..just opinions from someone who is willing to help where he can.

  10. #10
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    Default

    Helios, a level leader of say 6 to 8lb attached to a factory welded loop will damage the outer coating in the loop over time - although shouldn't break the loop core.

    I don't use those commercially made single piece tapered leaders. I find them restrictive and after half a dozen fly changes they're nothing but a glorified butt section with extra tippet added anyway.

    It's not a cost issue - I simply prefer to make my own leaders from spools of mono and fluoro that I carry so I can get exactly what I want whenever I want.

    I do sometimes use straight through level leaders but most of the time I'll include a thicker butt section. After the butt I'll have step downs in diameter to my desired tippet. That can mean one, two, or even three step downs. For heavier salty work and big flies e.g. bass, that will generally be just the one level section after the butt. Same for most freshwater wet fly applications.

    Having a butt section does aid turnover but that's usually a secondary consideration - mainly it's just easier and quicker to attach a new leader (any sort) to a butt section than to the fly line.

    The butt section stays in place for many sessions, sometimes years. You can also terminate the butt section with a loop if you think you'll be doing a lot of leader changes, but I seldom use that system because it can be a bit more prone to tangles. Mostly simple two or three turn surgeons knots for me. Get yourself a Daiwa Sokkou tool - best little knot tool EVER!
    Last edited by William Ewels; 24-06-14 at 05:31 AM.
    The highest form of existence is play.

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