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Thread: Bead Heads

  1. #1
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    Default Bead Heads

    Hey, is it just me or do you guys also get crappy quality beads whether they are tungsten or brass?
    By crappy, I mean QC (Quality Control)/

    You try feed the beads onto hooks and a few fit and the next few are like trying to thread a square peg into a round hole.

    I have tried different brands, but there is on average a 20% failure on beads.

    I've always used Rip Lips Beads, but somehow I think they have also gone the Chinese route and quality has dropped over the years (+/- last 5 years)

    I'm sick of sitting here poking a dubbing needle through the beads to open the hole and tearing up fingers.

    What are you blokes using?

    FWIW - my hooks I use are always the same.
    TMC 2488H for my nymphs and I'm not prepared to compromise.
    Usual sizes are #16 and #18

    Interested to know.

  2. #2
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin James View Post
    Hey, is it just me or do you guys also get crappy quality beads whether they are tungsten or brass?
    By crappy, I mean QC (Quality Control)/

    You try feed the beads onto hooks and a few fit and the next few are like trying to thread a square peg into a round hole.
    FWIW - my hooks I use are always the same.
    TMC 2488H for my nymphs and I'm not prepared to compromise.
    Usual sizes are #16 and #18
    I would suggest trying Morne @ The African Fly Angler:
    http://www.theafricanflyangler.co.za...beads?Itemid=0

    BTW - TMC 2488H are rather thick and have quite a bend, which makes it even harder to get a bead to fit.
    What are you fishing for? I could suggest a better hook.
    Gary
    Flytyer - Where great flytying begins

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by GGY View Post
    I would suggest trying Morne @ The African Fly Angler:
    http://www.theafricanflyangler.co.za...beads?Itemid=0

    BTW - TMC 2488H are rather thick and have quite a bend, which makes it even harder to get a bead to fit.
    What are you fishing for? I could suggest a better hook.
    Hi Gary and members

    My understanding is that most tungsten beads you buy are about 40-60% tungsten.

    Can we get a higher tungsten % in SA? If so where?

    I'm thinking that for a higher % you can fish with a smaller bead to achieve the same weight and that can only be an advantage.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grant111 View Post
    Hi Gary and members

    My understanding is that most tungsten beads you buy are about 40-60% tungsten.
    Can we get a higher tungsten % in SA? If so where?
    I'm thinking that for a higher % you can fish with a smaller bead to achieve the same weight and that can only be an advantage.
    Now Tungsten density = 19.3g/cm^3.
    All "tungsten" beads must be alloyed - max alloy density I know about is around 18g/cm^3.
    The best "tungsten" beads have the highest density, as well as the smallest PRACTICAL slot/hole (width & shape)m as well as the least amount of countersink (for beads with a hole, not a slot).
    To be honest, most tungsten beads come from a very limited amount of suppliers, mostly in China, and thus most will be similar in tungsten %.

    That said, Competition Tungsten is a brand out of Europe, which claims a greater tungsten %, and thus density.
    From my testing, using an accurate scale, this is around 8-10% more mass for the same size slotted bead. Some of this is probably down to smaller slots/holes. Their countersunk are closer to 2-5% heavier, since they have quite a large "countersunk" cutout. Whether this ~5-10% is enough to go a bead size smaller is debatable. Slimmer flies, thinner hooks & less bulk on the fly is likely to have a greater effect than 5-10% heavier bead.

    These are available in SA - contact Ronnie Smith. ronnies@kia.co.za
    Gary
    Flytyer - Where great flytying begins

  5. #5
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    Hi Gary,

    Thanks for the reply.

    I love the TMC2488H hook - yep, bit thicker (and heavier) but it is such a strong hook for the big NZ trout and don't open.
    Usually sizes #14-20 are my go-to hook. They are 3x wide which makes a huge difference too.
    The key to this hook is the straight eye which I also like and rides in the water!

    I used the TMC2457 a lot as well, but have consolidated and gone the heavier hook route with the nymphs.

    What are you tying on?

    @Grant - these beads I use are 97% tungsten and go down like the Kursk.
    Always been good, but the QC has let them down of late.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin James View Post
    Hi Gary,
    I love the TMC2488H hook - yep, bit thicker (and heavier) but it is such a strong hook for the big NZ trout and don't open.
    Usually sizes #14-20 are my go-to hook. They are 3x wide which makes a huge difference too.
    The key to this hook is the straight eye which I also like and rides in the water!
    What are you tying on?
    Ah - I see now you are in Oz.
    My preferences depend upon fly style, but I also want the same hook to work on trout and smallmouth yellows, so my requirements match yours for NZ trout.
    Briefly:
    JIGS - Fulling Mill Jig Force Barbless
    Nymph - Hanak H230 (#12-16 ), Dohiku 301 (#18-20) [technically a dry fly hook, but perfecxt for both dry & nymph in these sizes]
    addis - Fulling Mill Czech Nymph
    Dry - Hanak H130 (#12-16), then Dohiku 301 (#18-20)
    Streamer - Knapek N Nymph hooks (not their Streamer hook). Knapek L Lake hooks for certain patterns.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin James View Post
    @Grant - these beads I use are 97% tungsten and go down like the Kursk.
    Always been good, but the QC has let them down of late.
    Careful here - claims of 97% tungsten *may* only be that - claims. I have weighed quite a lot of tungsten on an accurate scale (to 0.001g).
    Gary
    Flytyer - Where great flytying begins

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by GGY View Post
    Now Tungsten density = 19.3g/cm^3.
    All "tungsten" beads must be alloyed - max alloy density I know about is around 18g/cm^3.
    The best "tungsten" beads have the highest density, as well as the smallest PRACTICAL slot/hole (width & shape)m as well as the least amount of countersink (for beads with a hole, not a slot).
    To be honest, most tungsten beads come from a very limited amount of suppliers, mostly in China, and thus most will be similar in tungsten %.

    That said, Competition Tungsten is a brand out of Europe, which claims a greater tungsten %, and thus density.
    From my testing, using an accurate scale, this is around 8-10% more mass for the same size slotted bead. Some of this is probably down to smaller slots/holes. Their countersunk are closer to 2-5% heavier, since they have quite a large "countersunk" cutout. Whether this ~5-10% is enough to go a bead size smaller is debatable. Slimmer flies, thinner hooks & less bulk on the fly is likely to have a greater effect than 5-10% heavier bead.

    These are available in SA - contact Ronnie Smith. ronnies@kia.co.za
    Tks Gary

    I agree, a 5-10% weight difference is not going to make the difference is was hoping for. Was really hoping the commercial beads were low in content and there was a way to get a significant improvement by sourcing something different.

    Oh well.

  8. #8
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    Thanks Gary for insight.

    I don't know enough about tungsten % and what weights to comment so appreciate your input there.
    The 97% is a claim on their packaging - what I do know though is that these beads shatter on wayward casts.

    For comparison relatively speaking, what would be the weight of say the following sized beads:

    2.00mm = 5/64"
    2.50mm = 3/32"
    3.00mm = 7/64"

    I have some very accurate scales I can use that weigh powder for hand loads.
    Just be interesting to know.

    Thanks mate again for the useful info.

  9. #9
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    Then compare the size of the hole, and how much of the bead was machined out for "better tying"
    I prefer a bead that is cut "square" at the back, but not that easy to find.
    Korrie Broos

    Don't go knocking on Death's door, ring the bell and run like hell. He hates it. (anon)
    Nymphing, adds depth to your fly fishing.
    Nymphing, is fly fishing in another dimension

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin James View Post
    Thanks Gary for insight.
    For comparison relatively speaking, what would be the weight of say the following sized beads:
    2.00mm = 5/64"
    2.50mm = 3/32"
    3.00mm = 7/64"
    I have some very accurate scales I can use that weigh powder for hand loads.
    Metric v Imperial conversions are not very good starting point. A lot of the bead manufacturers make both metric (in 0.5mm increments) and imperial (in X/8 or 16 or 32 or 64) - some mix and match similar sizes.
    I personally prefer the 0.5mm metric increments for my beads.
    5/64" = 2.0mm (close enough)
    3/32" = actually 2.4mm
    7/64" = actually 2.8mm

    Since volume of a sphere is 4/3*Pi*r^3:
    A true 2.5mm has 13% more volume than a 2.4mm
    A true 3.0mm has 22% more volume than a 2.8mm

    Here are some figures (These I weighed myself):
    Type Size Mass (g)
    Tungsten-Slotted 4.0 0.432
    Tungsten-Slotted 3.5 0.287
    Tungsten-Slotted 3.0 0.190
    Tungsten-Slotted 2.5 0.124
    Tungsten-Slotted 2.0 0.053
    Tungsten-C/Sunk 3.8 0.421
    Tungsten-C/Sunk 3.3 0.281
    Tungsten-C/Sunk 3.0 0.195
    Tungsten-C/Sunk 2.5 0.116
    Tungsten-C/Sunk 2.0 0.065
    And material, as well as actual dia, hole/slot dia, countersunk cutout also make a big difference in overall mass.
    In the above, the 2.0mm slotted actually has less mass than the 2.0mm countersunk - this I think is due to central hole size.

    Weigh 10 beads to reduce error.
    If you are going to compare using a powder scale - 1 grain = 0.065grams & most measure to 1/10 of a grain = 0.0065grams
    Last edited by GGY; 18-08-15 at 08:38 AM.
    Gary
    Flytyer - Where great flytying begins

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