Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 54

Thread: Help with floatation

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Gauteng
    Posts
    2,677

    Default

    If anyone want's to go halvies on some hackles I'm keen, I need a new White cape and a dark-red/brown cape. I'll never use the whole thing.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Parys, Free State
    Posts
    9,760

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jock0 View Post
    My routine is now to use hydrostop as soon as I'm finished tying the fly (or taking it out the packet) and letting it cure overnight. When on the water I'll rub a bit of gink into my fly if its a non-cdc fly and a little bit on the tippet section if I want it to float too. I have found gink to work better than the aquel stuff but the aquel is still pretty good. You are welcome to the half a bottle of aquel i still have left if you cant find any locally in pta and dont fancy driving to Mia's. Getting into the habit of redressing your flies on the water is a good one as it gives you a chance to check the tippet, knots, hooks etc after every fish.
    Thanks JockO,

    I'll take u up on ur offer.Let me know when ur at or going to Solly's.In future I'll get Yunus to order from Jandi.Looks like that is the way to go nowadays with those okes.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Wellington, NZ
    Posts
    894

    Default

    Some suggestions, a couple fall in the "obvious" category, but here goes...

    • Use light-wire, dry fly hooks.
    • Use the best quality hackle you can afford.
    • Ensure that the hackle is the correct size for the fly you are tying. Look at getting a hackle gauge, and possibly a fly dimension chart.
    • For variant/oversized hackle type flies, pre-treat with Hydrostop like Rudolph said.
    • For silicone type gel, buy decent stuff, and thoroughly treat the fly before it gets wet...
    • Once you've started fishing, use TopRide to dry the fly, after blowing excess water off
    • If you fishing dry + dropper, make sure you have the correct size dry for the amount of weight on your dropper flies.
    Last edited by ebf; 05-03-08 at 02:01 PM.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Parys, Free State
    Posts
    9,760

    Default

    Thanx for all the replies,I'll def use ur advice.

    I'm currently testing 100% pure liquid silicone for pre treating.I read that this is also very good.Seems like all agents are silicone based so therefor I see no reason why it shouldn't work.

    I have tested it on DH and it worked fine but this was long ago and I never actually fished it so the verdict is still out.

    My yarn is busy soaking,will take it out tonight and test it come Sat.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    None
    Posts
    10,233

    Default

    Hi Gerrit

    While on this topic, I might mention using cheap hackle is not always a BAD thing. Mostly cheaper Indian capes are very soft (even more so when it's Hen), and have certain applications in dry flies as well.

    When faced with really tough conditions (smooth, low & ultra-clear) I actually prefer to fish with a soft(ish) hackled dry fly. There is a little more movement from the softer barbs, and the fly generally looks a little wispier than a heavily hackled hedgehog. It sits lower (if tied upright) than the stiffer hackles would as well.

    So ja, maybe not of much use to you that would fish bigger/faster water more often, but don't discard softer hackles for dries completely.

    PS: 80% of my parachute flies have a single turn of partridge of hen hacle on them and a halo.
    Mario Geldenhuys
    Smallstream fanatic, plus I do some other things that I can't tell you about

    "All the tips or magical insights in the world can't replace devotion, dedication, commitment, and gumption - and there is not secret in that" - Glenn Brackett

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Cape Town
    Posts
    1,956

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TJB View Post
    all the above is true about how to get it to float, but no matter what you do to treat it, even a poorly treated fly can fish well provided that you fish it with as little drag as possible if you keep drowning it , it wont do the job for long . so fish it without drag and try not to pull it under the water at all if possible. this means you only need a few flies in your box otherwise you will never have enough.
    This will help a lot, another thing that works well is instead of pulling your fly backwards to start you back cast after a drift, try high-sticking it and then use a roll cast to pick it up off the water. If you get it right the fly will get picked up off the water clean (and not dragged through the water by your submerged tippet) and you are ready to cast to the next place. This doesn't work if you have a dropper on by the way...
    Around the steel no tortur'd worm shall twine, No blood of living insect stain my line;
    Let me, less cruel, cast feather'd hook, With pliant rod athwart the pebbled brook,
    Silent along the mazy margin stray, And with fur-wrought fly delude the prey

  7. #27
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Parys, Free State
    Posts
    9,760

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FlyGuide.co.za View Post
    Hi Gerrit

    While on this topic, I might mention using cheap hackle is not always a BAD thing. Mostly cheaper Indian capes are very soft (even more so when it's Hen), and have certain applications in dry flies as well.

    When faced with really tough conditions (smooth, low & ultra-clear) I actually prefer to fish with a soft(ish) hackled dry fly. There is a little more movement from the softer barbs, and the fly generally looks a little wispier than a heavily hackled hedgehog. It sits lower (if tied upright) than the stiffer hackles would as well.

    So ja, maybe not of much use to you that would fish bigger/faster water more often, but don't discard softer hackles for dries completely.

    PS: 80% of my parachute flies have a single turn of partridge of hen hacle on them and a halo.
    So wanneer kan ek kom vir klasse?All this info is a bit confusing.Best I start stappie vir stappie.

    Thanks for the info Mario

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    North of the boerewors curtain
    Posts
    2,106

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gerrit View Post
    Thanks JockO,

    I'll take u up on ur offer.Let me know when ur at or going to Solly's.In future I'll get Yunus to order from Jandi.Looks like that is the way to go nowadays with those okes.
    Doubt i'll be at Solly's soon but I'm in our Pretoria office for the next couple of weeks so we can make a plan. Might be heading past queenswood too sometime so pm me
    Check your knots!

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Durban
    Posts
    2,677

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Byron View Post
    If anyone want's to go halvies on some hackles I'm keen, I need a new White cape and a dark-red/brown cape. I'll never use the whole thing.
    You can buy Whiting half capes.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Gauteng
    Posts
    2,677

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ShaunF View Post
    You can buy Whiting half capes.
    Do they cost half-price?

Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •