Hmmmm, split shots..... now there is something worth looking into!
Might make for the least confusion.
I put a dot of appropriate Koki pen colour on top of the finished thread head
and use a lighter colour system if it's black or dark thread. I usually only use three codes. When I get the fly out I weight it in my hand by throwing it up and down and if all feels OK I put it on the leader and see how if performs wet in the shallows before fishing with it. Just a few thoughts from my side
The more you know, the less you need (Aboriginal Australian proverb)
Only dead fish swim with the stream (Malcolm Muggeridge)
Hmmmm, split shots..... now there is something worth looking into!
Might make for the least confusion.
Paint them fluo orange and add a hook to them for ultra-fast egg pattern...
The more you know, the less you need (Aboriginal Australian proverb)
Only dead fish swim with the stream (Malcolm Muggeridge)
I keep it simple - flies are either unweighted by design (eg softhackles), non-beaded (standard nymphs - a couple of turns of lead in the thorax), or have either a brass bead (light weight) or tungsten bead (heavy weight).
That said, I normally fish tungsten and would rather go to a size SMALLER tungsten than the same size fly with a brass bead (I fish tungstens down to #20). The smaller (but denser) tungsten gets down better than the bigger, less dense (but possibly the same weight brass fly) - getting to depth sooner is almost always better.
This also keeps fly boxes & fly selections simple.
Gary
Flytyer - Where great flytying begins
I'm similar to Gary. Except all my beads are tungsten. For fishing shallowish water I use nymphs with no beads (just some lead wraps). If I need to go deeper I use nymphs with a tungsten bead. Deeper still and I use a bigger fly with a bigger bead, often with a smaller unweighted nymph trailing. Deeper still and I use 2 big tungsten nymphs.
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