Takbok Delight and New Innovations - Largemouth Yellows

[Gerrit Viljoen]

This post isn't really about Deer Hair flies but morso about the style of weedguard I adopted on ALL my Baitfish and Bugger patterns for Largemouth Yellows and Trout to a certain extent. I've been testing the system since March 2010 and I'm happy to report it has replaced the old one, 100%!

The old system, single strand of mono which was either burnt/melted or tied in at the front was very good and convenient and scored a very respectable 80%. Out of 10 casts into bushes, (deliberate) I would get stuck atleast twice. That's very very good trust me but my annoyance came with hook ups. I'm convinced LM sometimes target the heads of fish/prey and hence you always had a strand of mono/fluoro in the way.

After doing some research I came across some of the popular Bass methods. In most cases they used the "single loop system" Once you had a hook up the loop would either go to the right or left of the hook point plus "bounce"/ slide off structure. This system had me interested but not sold. I searched further....

I then came across Ken Iwamasa who invented the "double loop" weedguard. Basicly 2 strands of mono/fluoro tied in,folded into a loop and tied off at the front i.e hook eye.Once you get a hookup the strands would flare open or in case of structure, the loop/bubble would act as a guard againt it and slide off.I felt more confident with two strands and started experimenting.

6 months down the line I'm completely sold on it and won't change again.Thus far 100% snag free,zero hook up problems and the fly doesn't swim "funny". Try it, it works!!!

The difficult part is finding the best ratio ito diameter and length. There I can't help you too much,you'll have to experiment cause my choice in hook is guaranteed to be different from yours and hence the length of strands would differ. I can however tell you that I'm using 32lb Siglon and the strands are 5.5cm long. You begin by tying in the 2 strands,complete the fly and finish off by bringing the strands forward and tie off.

[Troep]

Gerrit,

I can also confirm that Ive been using the same weedguard since Ive been here in the Lowveld due to all the stuff in the water. It also gives better weight distribution on the fly when there is a strand on each side. It kind of levels things out.

Great post en goeie raad!!

Great vlieg ook!!

[Andre]

To heck with the weed guard... take a look at the spinning... flippin brilliant I tell you brilliant. Wish i could spin deer hair like that.

[Korrie]

To heck with the weed guard... take a look at the spinning... flippin brilliant I tell you brilliant. Wish i could spin deer hair like that.

Andre
come around, I will show you how.

JOKES, very good observation.
Everyone would have looked at the mono, and not looked at the deer hair.

Mooi Gerrit.
Always, thinking and experimenting with new stuff.

[Gerrit Viljoen]

Thanks manne, alot of praktoosh!

[Scythe]

Ja boet ... excellent DH & Minora skills, well done.

[Korrie]

The trimming of the deer hair is superb.
No "flat" planes etc.

Maybe you can do a little "SBS" on how to trim to that level?

[Ryan]

Thanks manne, alot of praktoosh!

I enjoy working with DH too.. Out of interest, what do you use to trim the DH and do you steam it at all..I've never steamed it but apparently Murray recommends it..

[Gerrit Viljoen]

Ja boet ... excellent DH & Minora skills, well done.

Thanks Bertie

The trimming of the deer hair is superb.
No "flat" planes etc.

Thanks Korrie but what does " no flat planes" mean?

For interest sake, I managed to get in 12 pencil size clumps of hair in a 1cm gap. You can have the finest of hands and finesse touch but if the foundation of hair is done incorrectly,the end result will look rather dodgy,fact! There ain't any secrets, ok maybe MY OWN preference but def not secrets.

Before I give some pointers let me bust a popular myth.

Deer hair isn't hollow!!!! Put under a microscope you see a lot of air bubbles within the hair and hence a good material for dry flies like Caddis wings but def not hollow like a straw.

Tips in no particular order:

1. I used a lot of hair. 12 clumps for this fly.
2. I used different hair from a Deer. The skirt is body hair or rump, the head is belly hair. Belly hair has less under fur.
3.I prefer a thread based shank. Yes you can spin over thread.
4. Use a comb to comb out under fur if any.Gaps will show once you've trimmed the fly.Not necessarily a bad thing cause the gaps will soak up water quickly to get your fly down.
5. I used a combination of spinning and stacking techniques. You will never be able to achieve the look above with spinning only. Sometimes you need to add a lot of bulk and you do this with stacking especially when you get close to the dumbell eye or ontop.
6. I use two kinds of packers. A Brassie packer by Chris Helm (not the strongest but I like the consept) and a el chipo Sunrise jobbie which works superb. The latter you can't really use once you have eyes tied in. I'll post a pic of it. Nothing beats that thing on a "bare" shank.
7. I use strong thread - GSP 200.I lil overkill but I like it and that's all that matters.
8. Good scissors in fact the best. Anvil serrated curved ones. The bulk is trimmed with scissors anyway.
9. Always steam your fly before you do the final trimming.
10. Use Lions blades. Those old skeermes lemmetjies. I use one per fly. If it shows the 1st signs of bluntness I chuck it case closed.
11.Have a final look in mind or get a picture and trim accordingly.
12. Practice! If I had to tell you how many flies I had to redo you'll fall on your back. I probably used around 30 patches of hair before I got the 1st one half decent.

[muddler]

Brilliant fly Gerrit! You are setting the standard here for spinning deer hair. Thanks for the tips!