Articulation - How to join hooks and add a weedguard

[Gerrit Viljoen]

I've had a few requests to show you how I join hooks for Articulated flies and how to add a weedguard.So here goes!

Also see the the "Matching the hatch - Articulated brush flies" thread.

Front hook: TMC 9395 #4
Back hook: TMC 9395 #6

• Always use a smaller hook at the back.

• Always use ring eyed / straight eyed hooks.

Thread: Fine monofilament thread.
Wire: 25lb / 29lb Malin wire.
Weedguard: 32lb Fluoro
Glue: Up to u but I use a very potent nail glue.




Attach your thread at the hook eye and wrap back along the shank about 1cm.

Cut a piece of wire 12-15cm long and insert one end through the eye of the hook. It should extend roughly 1cm past the eye right to where you ended with your thread.



Use your thumb and bend the wire backwards along the shank.Make a few wraps and secure.



Use a ruler and measure 1.6cm back from hook point.Your bend will occur there.



Make a mark.



Insert the back hook.





Fold the wire by pulling downwards whilst keeping tension with your left hand. (I can't exactly use both my hands and take photo's so I've let the hook rest on the material clip but picture that as your left hand) lol..

I removed the hook just to show you the apparent bend in the wire.



Make a few thread wraps right above the hook point to secure the wire. VERY IMPORTANT STEP NOW. Don't bother with trying to allign the two wires directly ontop of each other. It is not necessary.Let it hang just off centre on the far side.

[Gerrit Viljoen]

Another VERY IMPORTANT STEP. Before wrapping forward,first run the end of the wire back through the eye of the hook.This step will prevent a lump later on.Remember, you want those two wires that goes through the eye as tight as possible.You still want your tippet to go through..



Now that you've pulled the wire through,secure with thread wraps BUT MAKE SURE YOU SECURE THE WIRES NEXT TO EACH OTHER I.E. PARALLEL.



See they are next to each other. Why is this important?

Well I've just saved you having to redo the whole lot oh and because your weed guard must fit in between.If the wires were on top of each other your weedguard would've fallen to the side once you tied it in. Haha yes I learnt this quickly.



Flatten the end of the piece of fluoro using a plier.




Tie the flat part in right on top / between those two wires. Can you see now why it was important to align the wires next to each other?

Fold the weedguard back, glue everything and trim to length.



Finished product.Everything nicely aligned and secured.

[gazzarowan]

awesome stuff Gerrit!!!

love your work man!

[Bryan]

Great concept. I can't wait to try this out!

Gerrit, I really appreciate the time you have taken to demonstrate this technique

[Gerrit Viljoen]

awesome stuff Gerrit!!!

love your work man!

Thanks a lot.

Great concept. I can't wait to try this out!

Gerrit, I really appreciate the time you have taken to demonstrate this technique

Pleasure Bryan.

[smallstreams.co.za]

Hi Gerrit

Have you tried the technique where they use a single piece of mono, which is knotted before it it tied in (to prevent pulling) and passed through the eye of the 2nd hook and then tied in (also knotted)? I have never tied double-flies a lot myself, so it's out of curiosity why you have chosen this method. Easiest, strongest etc?

I have also seen guys fold the wire/mono over itself (back) instead of going through the eye.

Thanks man

[Gerrit Viljoen]

Hi Mario,

No I haven't used mono at all and won't either on these big flies. Do u perhaps have a pic of the knotted technique?

The pro with the wire is once u had a fish on,your loop might bend a little bit but that is easy to rebend into place. With mono you will get memory so you loop will become crooked overtime.I also don't like braid, I can just see how that second hook will foul every so often. You want something sturdy (like wire) that keeps everything in place and that will give you that "s" movement. That is the whole trick behind it all.Also, that connection needs to be as thin as possible but still be powerfull enough to hold big fish. Can u imagine the bulk of 29lb mono? The wire I use is only 0.010".

Then ito strength, the two ends that is essentially "hooking" / pulling against the eye is the strongest I believe, I mean you have two compared to one or none depending on how you connect them.Finally, the whole process is very easy,it takes but a 1min to complete once you get the hang of it.

Ps.I think there is scope for mono on smaller patterns like little Damseltjies. I'm busy with a korker of a Articulated Dragon Nymph. The R&D has been done,it's a matter of tying it.

[gkieser]

Gerrit I love it when i get home, log on and see that you've posted a new thread as I always know i am going to learn something. You must be one of the foremost contributors to the evolution of flytying.

Thanks for sharing this! Gonna try adapt it to some tiger flies!

[Gerrit Viljoen]

Wow G,thanks it's only a pleasure!

[smallstreams.co.za]

Hi Mario,

No I haven't used mono at all and won't either on these big flies. Do u perhaps have a pic of the knotted technique?

The pro with the wire is once u had a fish on,your loop might bend a little bit but that is easy to rebend into place. With mono you will get memory so you loop will become crooked overtime.I also don't like braid, I can just see how that second hook will foul every so often. You want something sturdy (like wire) that keeps everything in place and that will give you that "s" movement. That is the whole trick behind it all.Also, that connection needs to be as thin as possible but still be powerfull enough to hold big fish. Can u imagine the bulk of 29lb mono? The wire I use is only 0.010".

Then ito strength, the two ends that is essentially "hooking" / pulling against the eye is the strongest I believe, I mean you have two compared to one or none depending on how you connect them.Finally, the whole process is very easy,it takes but a 1min to complete once you get the hang of it.

Ps.I think there is scope for mono on smaller patterns like little Damseltjies. I'm busy with a korker of a Articulated Dragon Nymph. The R&D has been done,it's a matter of tying it.

Good points. The wire is probably stronger yes, and I never though about "memory". Like I said I've never really tied this style (maybe 4 max ever) , and just asked out of interest.

I'll search for the pics of the knotted mono technique. Basically it's just a barrel knot on both ends. Obviously the knot is made after it goes through the eye of the back hook

Another quick question (sorry). Does that wire have enough flex to create enough movement (which I also guess is one of the main reasons for using this tecnique)?

Thanks G