What method off tying on your leader

[deewy]

What method should I use to tie on my leader,I had a braided loop on but I got smashed by a huge leerie and he pulled it off!!! Must I make a loop in the end off my flyline or a nail knot,but then I have to snip off a piece off flyline should I want to replace the leader.

What to do??? What has worked the best for you guys,any suggestions are welcome

[QKSLVR_76]

I personally use a braided loop as well. But have never had a problem where the loop has come off. I only use the real small ones which has a tight fit when inserting your flyline into the tube and then also using genuine Super Glue. Another trick I use is not to snip the extended part of the loop off but to also try and glue it to the exposed flyline which anchors it extra.

Braided loops for me are great and convenient, as you quickly change the strength of you leader tippet with changing conditions.

If the leerie took you tippet and loop, he must have been a monster.

[Yellowfever]

There are connections and there are connections, some will get you into jail some out of jail

For a real strong connection I like the old - soak the tip of flyline in acetone, strip the plastic and form a loop with the core tie this down with kevlar thread and ZAP a GAP/Super glue. THIS ONLY WORKS WITH BRAIDED CORE LINES!

Dave Whitlock published articles on various connections here http://www.flyfisherman.com/ . If you can't find the article, which I couldn't do now. PM or email me I will walk home to my Dell (with Lego Star Wars and FF downloads galore) and mail the documents. He gives 3 or 4 options all incomporating ZAP a GAP. All being smooth casting connections.

[ShaunF]

I needle-knot the leaders to my braided core floating lines and nail knot the leaders to my monocore intermediate lines. Use Loon Knot Sense to coat the knots and smooth them off. Never had one come off.

I don't advise using any form of super glue anywhere near a leader or flyline, as it tends to dry brittle, and often the line cracks directly next to the brittle section which has superglue on it. Loon's KnotSense is much better as it stays flexible, and also dried instantly when exposed to UV light, so apply it in a shaded area then expose to sunlight to cure it immediately.

[deewy]

Thanx a million guys,I had my braided loop on and just loop-de-loop'd my mono line onto that and then attach my fly...I had hook ups in trees and landed a couple of fish in that way and my loop did not move,that leerie took it straight off!!!! I had the shakes like a schoolgirl on matric dance night
I am going fishing tonight and I will make a plan to get my fly in the water even if it is a mcguyver move

[dlampert]

Thanx a million guys,I had my braided loop on and just loop-de-loop'd my mono line onto that and then attach my fly...I had hook ups in trees and landed a couple of fish in that way and my loop did not move,that leerie took it straight off!!!! I had the shakes like a schoolgirl on matric dance night
I am going fishing tonight and I will make a plan to get my fly in the water even if it is a mcguyver move

The simplest method is probably an Albright Knot. The small braided loops which come with the flyline are usually rubbish and fall off in saltwater - especially if put on by monkeys in fly shops who don't know what they are doing. I have very little saltwater experience but the couple of experienced guys who I have seen use braided loops BUT:

1. They use proper saltwater braid
2. They use around 1m of braided loop with the doubled backed section at least 50cm long !
3. They whip finish 4 or 5 times along the length of the braid to strengthen it

MC is the right person to answer this, I remember attending a saltwater flyfishing talk he gave 4 or 5 years ago at the Hout Bay ski boat club. Just remember that with MC it will probably involve materials made from unobtanium tied with triple bimini's

Regards,
Darryl

[Yellowfever]

Also go to Fly Castaway website or some other specialist SW site. I can only image you need to approach things differently when aiming to retain the brute strength of a 20kg GT.

Get a once in a lifetime fish you don't want to lose it like that

[Gogga]

I don't use braided loops at all. (lost to many fish with them) My Rio lines generally have a welded loop (factory) on them - however, if not then I use a double nail knot to form a loop, leeder to tippet is another story altogether.

The Bimini twist is another thing to consider, with enough practise I get them done in a minute or so, but lately I find I prefer the spider hitch.

The Spider Hitch is only second to the Bimini Twist but is faster and easier to tie. The drawback is that it needs to be perfectly tightened or it will cut itself. When pulling the knot closed, both loops need to be the same size. I f they are not you can adjust the loop by either pulling the tag or standing line until they are both the same size and then you can close the knot. Keeping the knot wet is a must.

I use both knots, depending on how much time I have and how many rigs I need to tie. If I am looking at a possibly long hard fight, then I want the best possible knot.



All the best
Mike

[nkula_nkula]

What method should I use to tie on my leader,I had a braided loop on but I got smashed by a huge leerie and he pulled it off!!! Must I make a loop in the end off my flyline or a nail knot,but then I have to snip off a piece off flyline should I want to replace the leader.

What to do??? What has worked the best for you guys,any suggestions are welcome

use a bimini twist, increases the breaking strain/acts as a shock absorber. I have a needle nail knot with a short piece of mono and a loop that I loop to loop with the bimini twist. The bimini twist is tied on the but section of the leader. Simple and forgiving....

[MCC]

Mike

The Spider Hitch is a fast knot to tie, but the drawback is that it has a lower impact strength than the Bimini. On a steady pull the Spider is as strong as the Bimini. Test this by tying a Bimini on one side of a piece of mono and then a Spider on the other end, now pull until one snaps. This is an interesting experiment.

The main purpose of a Bimini is to create a double line, without losing any strength in the main line, that can in turn be attached to a shock leader. A secondary reason for using the Bimini is to act as a shock absorber, but I believe that this advantage is negligable.

For 99 % of my saltwater fishing I use straight 20 lbs Mason or Rio saltwater leader material. This would be when fishing for Yellowtail, Leeries, Elf, smaller Kingies and even Longfin Tuna. No Biminis or shock leaders at all.

It is only when targeting things like big Yellowfin or GT's and where a shock leader is required that the Bimini serves any real purpose.

I use only Braided loops to attach the leader to the fly line. It is however important that you do not use the shop bought versions, but that you rather make your own. I will mostly use 50 lbs braid, not because of the strength, but rather because of the durability as opposed to 30 lbs braid. When forming the loop, it is important that the braid is pulled into itself far enough to allow the fly line to be inserted at least an inch into the double section of braid. The loop is then fixed on the fly line by two or even three needle knots over the base of the braid. No glue is required, but some knot sense will protect the knots.

There are a lot of guys who fish 30 to 50 lbs leaders when targeting the big Yellowfin or GT's and under these conditions something is bound to fail at some point. With the new generation saltwater lines that have cores of up to 75 lbs, the weakest link would almost always be the leader connection.

Cheers
MC