Just had to share this fly with you.Tied for me by the owner's son of the tackle shop in Mosselbay's main road after complaining of the lack of success with Grunter in the Kleinbrak, needless to say, they still eluded me... allthough I'm sure this fly is worth it's salt.
This is a very easy to tie, cheap, unsinkable dry fly which will catch fish for you anywhere, takes 50 seconds to tie one. #16 to 14 hook, body Hends Spectra dubbing or similar dubbing (you can use anything really) head and wing-a thin strip of packing foam tied in air head style, tie a few and enjoy!
Used to be a rubber worm fisherman when it came to bass. That was before I saw the light and started hunting them on fly. I wanted something wormlike to fish on fly. Enter the Wiggle Worm. This fly has an amazing action due to the chenile tail and the eyes which give it a little floatation. Only prob is that the chenile gets bitten off quite easily, so experimenting with zonker strips at the moment.
This is a fly I started using this season on the rivers and seems to be very good when the fish are being a bit fussy. Brown/Cream (pictured) and Black/Grizzly colour combinations work pretty well. The inset is a shot from underneath the fly. It is tied parachute style, but the post is 7x tippet that is then pulled forward and tied down.
Came across this fly on the net and tied up a few. The tying requires creating a spine for the fly by using softex/softhead, preventing the wing from fouling the hook while casting.
I like the profile and will test it before submitting a tying sequence.
Great fly to fish sunken on an intermediate line. Has a tendency to be neutrally bouyant once waterlogged. Also an awesome fly to fish on the surface at last light, using short sharp strips so that the fly pushes water and makes a noise at it moves.
After reading the thread in the forum about leeries popper I made this one. The head still needs to be epoxied.
Now the slow leeries can also be caught. In response to yesterday`s news I`ll call this one the Werner Greef Fly.
This is a pretty cool surface fly for bass. Very popular in the states for smallmouth bass, but I have caught a few largemouths on it too. In smaller sizes it is known to take bluegill and other panfish too. Fish it like a normal popper. Begin the first strip just before it hits the water so it`s moving when it hits, then leave it. After a while continue stripping with long pauses inbetween.
I recently got my self a tying vice and started to make my own flies. This fly is tied from a fly tying pack (includes instructions and material) and is one of my first. It looks a bit different from the example given - a bit bulky.
Unfortunately I can’t give you any catch reports on it as yet.
A selection of flies tied specifically for East Cape waters by my boet Craig. I personally prefer thinner patterns with natural fibres. The examples of a olive/white clouser with yellow eyes is my personal favorite and I never leave home without several in the old fly box.
Has a similar action to a Dalhberg diver. By far the most productive fly I have ever used for bass. Can be fished fast with an intermediate or twitch and leave on a floating line. The weedguard is essential to get into those tight spots where the bigger bass are holding.
This is my first attempt at self tying the pattern.
A Dragon Fly that I tied up. The tail is a paperclip, the eyes is beads covered with Organza, the wings are made from the clear plastic that is used to print on for overhead projectors. The whole body is covered with something like V-rib that I bought from a material shop.
Used the instructions for the JAM fly.
The orange you can see is dubbing around the hookshank to suggest eggs.
The body was wrapped with a +-1cm thick clear plastic\rubber that I found in material shops. It gives it a nice see through appearance. Tied it on a longshank hook. The whole fly including the backtail I used to suggest pinchers is about 10 cm long.
After finishing it I decided that the next one needs a weedguard.
Scuse the bad photo and the imprompto name, but here`s a version of the fly we spoke about in the forums (Breede River, started by yours), Reinier.
This one has a black Arctic Fox wing top and bottom, and a palmered brown grizzly marabou body. Tail is comprised of a rubber grub`s tail, a hint of flash and some rubber legs. I fish it slowly on the bottom most of the time. Works lekka when the bass aren`t interrested in minnow imitations or topwaters. I hope nobody`s offended by the bass lure tail, the bass don`t seem to mind!;)
Just messed around with the idea of wrapping chenille around the shank instead of spinning yarn etc.basically twisted the olive and white chenille together and wrapped aroung to form a head.and then finished with silicone.it doesnt look to bad...hope fully the leeries think so too
Playing around to try and make flies dive and wiggle.This fly dives to about 40 cm. When I tried it out this morning I got a hit from a bass on one of my first casts, while still testing the diving action. If you give it a few fast strips and leave it, it slowly floats to the top again. Very good action underwater.
My first attempt at a Bucktail Deceiver and I was quite chuffed with the result.
I used White, Chatreusse and Red bucktail, Natural SF Blend, UV Flash tied down with white 140 Ultra thread and red 240 Thread
This is a caddis pattern that has worked well for me on the Vaal. I’m a big fan of wire and I’ve tie these in a variety of colours. Came up with this one day when I was contemplating trying to weave wire (doesn`t work well)
Hook: 14 scud (TMC2457 or Grip 14731)
Thorax: Brown Rabbit with 2mm tungsten bead
Underbody: 0.015” lead wire
Abdomen: UTC Wire brassie diameter
Back: Brown scud back
Ok, here is my fly from the freshwater fly swop, I`ll post the rest if I don`t get any objections.
HOOK:14 Mustad R70
THREAD: UTC 70 Olive
EYES: small "oil slick" beads
TAIL: Olive Mink Zonker
BODY: Olive Mink
BACK: Olive Raffia
LEGS: Spirit River Fine round rubber
This is a very good \`SWF survival kit fly\`, it has caught over a dozen of species and it is a very handy fly to tie in a hurry. All you need is:
a piece of zonker strip (rabbit or other animal) in a colour of your choice.
A saltwater hook (size 6 to 6/0)
some flashy stuff (optional)
some hourglass eyes (optional)
Tie in in the zonker strip about two thirds from the hook eye, leaving a tail that is about 1.5 to 2 times the length of the shank. leave the same amount of fur on the other side of the strip.
Tie in one or two strips of flash on either side of the hook.
Palmer the rest of the zonker strip towards the eye.
Tie in an hour glass eye if you want a jigging motion and whip finish.
If you don\`t use hourglass eyes, you can use bead-chain eyes or paint some eyes on.
To prevent the tail from turning around the fly, I coat the first cm of the bottom of the tail (behind the hook bend) with some Tuffleye epoxy (5 minute also works well).
The hairs on the strip should point backwards.
Another allrounder from my box. It is based on the Polarfibre minnow.
Tie two equal bunches of polarfibre (white and camel) in a 75 degree angle on the hookshank. Draw a black stripe on the back and some red at the gills, with waterproof markers.
Stick on two holographic eyes and finish the head with epoxy. I use Tuffleye, an expoxy which sets in seconds if you expose it to UV-light. More info on the epoxy at www.wetahook.com (I have no commercial interest in the company).
Hook size, from 4 to 8. Fish the fly on a small loop (uni or Rapala) and in a darting motion.
Ruan`s Killer Caddis,
I am hesitant to say that I invented this fly....but I actually think I did, It all started some time ago when I was fishing in the river Ipoyl in northern Hungary , there was quite a Caddis hatch , so I opted for an CDC &EHC - a great floater , but not unsinkable , especially with hundreds of bleak around ( for those of you who don`t know bleak.... they are small fish +- 10cm on average whose sole purpose on earth is to sink well presenter dries) , so after my EHC was sunk by a bleak I thought to myself, it has to be possible to make an unsinkable Caddis imitation - which still looks like the natural...... after a while of experimenting I finally settled for the following recipe :
Hook : 16 - 10 TMC 100
Thread: white 8/0
Body : Cream Anton dubbing
Legs : generic hackle ( i use grizzle)
Wing : 1mm craft foam , colour - Tan
Antennae : Elk hair / stripped hackle barbs
I now have a Caddis imitation which floats like a cork , looks realistic , skates across the water very well and it is very easy to tie.... what more do you need ? I now use this fly almost exclusively when fishing dries
Weather has been crap the past few months, so all our planned offshore trips were cancelled. We are hoping for some better weather now because I am planning to catch a big Atlantic cod on fly from a deep (20 to 30 metre) wreck. I have been experimenting with patterns and came up with this largish squid.
I have included the base of the fly in the picture: a piece of 1mm stainles wire with two eyes (haywire twist). On the wire I have threaded a couple of phosphorising beads to imitate the bioluminescent cells of a live squid.
Materials: body. a skirt of H2O Slinky Fibre, white, topped with pink Polar Fibre. Hook (head): Long white saddle hackles and two orange saddle hackles. Orange marabou and pink chenille. Two holographic eyes (8mm).
Hook is a 2/0 Tiemco.
Scud patterns belong to my fly fishing survival kit. I believe that this fly is responsible for nearly half of all my trout and grayling catches on certain rivers. I use it in different styles. On a long leader upstream with an indicator, or Czech style.
The body is formed with two layers of tungsten wire. Tie in a few strands of grizzle marabou for a tail, a piece of mono (0.12 mm) and a strip of pearlescent shellback material. Dub the body with tan or olive seal fur. Lay the shellback over the back and tie in with a couple of winds of mono. The most durable finish is a thin layer of epoxy (five minutes or Tuffleye) on the back. This will keep the mono from breaking when the fly bounces over the bottom.
Nothing gets coarse fish over here going like a bloodworm imitation. Especially when nothing is happening on the surface. I am sure that this pattern will work on SM Yellowfish as well.
Body, cold bead and epoxied red rubber leg material. Tail, piece of red marabou.
recently someone posted a thread asking about a fly for grunter. This lil fella caught me a mess of fish back in the 80`s... spotted grunter in estuaries & river mouths (Knysna lagoon, etc) as well as piginose grunter (white steenbras) at Trenneries & other spots in southern Transkei
Well, here is my first attempt to tie with rams/sculpin wool, didn’t turn out too bad. Tied this for a stillwater trout venue were the fish feed allot on small baitfish
Hook: #10 Long shank
Thread: Olive UTC 140
Eyes: 55lb Maxima mono
Weight: 3mm gold bead behind eye
Tail: Olive rabbit zonker
Body: Olive rams/sculpin wool.
I tied the body by spinning a split thread dubbing loop (UTC 140 is great for this)
I tied this dragonfly adult imitation for bass. The bass follow egg laying dragonflies around and then nail them when they get too close. the body, wing case, tail is all foam marked with a permanant marker and the wing is wing and strike (vision). This fly works very well and is durable!
A simple Copper-John - Brassie imitation that works extremely well for me!! The wings are from paint brush bristles.
Its heavy enough when weighted to use as a control fly in medium flowing water.
Try it - enjoy it!!!
With 10 carp in 3 successive outings to it`s belt, this fly is proving to be a carp killer of note.
Hook: TMC 2487 caddis pupa
Thorax and abdomen: Dubbed with synthetic flourescent dubbing material
Ribbing: Blue necklace elastic (available at your local bead shop).
The dubbing has been picked out to create the fuzzy effect that you can see in the accompanying photo.
I like to fish this fly with a slow figure of eight retrieve and a bit of a twitch
A benthic burrower, Hexegenia mayfly nymphs are found in still water and slow moving fluvial systems. A hatch of Hexegenia usually attracts big fish into feeding as they include some of the largest ephemerids found in SA and have been known to exceed 24 mm in length. Therefore they are an important aquatic food source for most predatory species. I tie this particular pattern in sizes # 12-16. Tail fibres-PT. Body - brown marabou fibres. Ribbing - fine gold wire. Back - PT fibres (4-6) Thorax - Peacock.Legs - marabou excess from thorax. Head - tungsten bead.
A copper jim variant which became my general purpose searching pattern in NZ`z southland region of South Island. It accounted for several bonanza sessions on some of the smaller upland rivers. It worked particularly well in the mornings before the main hatches occured. I tied it on a #16 or #18 short shank nymph hook. Most success was had using a copper tungsten bead 5/64. If fish were shy, I changed to a black bead.
A spinner patterns which accounted for most of my fish taken during the Deleatidium hatches in the Southland regions of NZ`z South Island. The rusty spinner tied in a similar fashion worked equally well. # 16 seemed to be the most readily accepted size.
A caddis emerger pattern fished in the surface film which accounted for many fish caught during the early afternoon hours before the main caddis hatches began at dusk. We then changed to G&H sedge patterns tied on a size # 14 to begin with and then one size up when darkness set in. Some of the most exciting dry fly fishing we have ever experienced. Takes were so violent that we ended up using 12 lb tippet!!!
A traditional feather wing Atlantic salmon fly which is rarely used in this day in age. However I came across some Icelanders who still swear by this pattern and so I keep a few handy for those days when nothing else seems to work.
A Hybrid between the red francis shrimp fly and the bomber. Bombers are fished on the surface as a dry fly. They can be presented dead-drift or skated. I have found dead drift to be more effective, although skating sometimes produces more boils behind the fly. The bomber is the most well known and most used dry fly in the Atlantic salmon world. It originated from an experience on the Royal river in Maine, where a deer hair mouse was used for sea-run browns. Every natural, and most unatural combination of colours of deer hair, calf tail, and hackle are used. However, in Russia, the green deer hair, brown hackle and white calf hair combination are most successful.
The British version of the Black bear or Butt fly series which have spawned a number of variations. The most commonly known variant is the Black Bear Green Butt which was created by Harry Smith in 1922. The British version was traditionally tied with stoats tail as the wing. Died black squirel tail is used in most modern versions. A great fly for clean water and or low water conditions. On our home river in Scotland it accounts for more Salmon and sea-trout than any other pattern. Sizes #8 -14 are most effective.
A versatile deer hair fly of the bug family which was developed in the early 60`s on the Big Salmon River. According to its creater - Doug Carter - while watching some salmon from a high ledge he decided to toss a bunch of green brown moss into the neck of the pool to see how the fish would react. A salmon immediatly rose to take the bunch of moss and so the first bug fly was born. It was originally tied with loosely packed green deer hair and brown hackle. It lack both a wing and tail.
The most successful variation of the bomber series. The size of bomber used is usually determined by the water height and temperature. Bombers can be fished dead-drift or skated with a half hitch behind the eye. An effective method is to skate the fly over a know lie and then present it dead drift over the same lie.
The Black Francis was discovered by Dr. Jónas Jónasson of Iceland while fishing on the famous Haffjardara river in western Iceland. He was experiencing a particularly frustrating week with no success. There were many salmon running the river but none would take. His cousin -Harni Snaebjornsson- visited him on his third day and gave him some peculiar looking flies which he described as bundles of wool with spikes sticking out of it. Needless to say he caught many salmon the following day and continued to do so throughout the remainder of the week. This fly is deadly in Russia and is most effective tied in red and black. In the early spring weeks we use a heavy version tied on a brass tube. When the water warms and the river drops, smaller sizes become more effective. Many big fish have been caught on the micro-francis tied on a size # 16 hook! This is my low water version tied on mico-tubing with a small conehead. I have several boxes dedicated to this family of Salmon flies and would gladly fish with them all season.
A fly based on the Lady Caroline which was tied with a paired bronze mallard wing and grey heron hackles for the throat. In this variation, the grey heron hackles have been substituted with orangle buck tail fibres. A early summer pattern when fresh fish have arrived.
Traditional feather winged flies are sadly a thing of the past and most are tied for picture framing. This is a fairly simple version of a far more elaborate design. I keep a few in my boxes but rarely use them. However, I do know a few traditionalist salmon fishers who still tie and use traditional feather winged salmon flies to good effect.
I`ve had a lot of success with this fly over the years.I`ve tried a lot of versions with different materials,but this one tied with chinelle with no tinsel or red tail has come out tops in the N.Cape for me.
This is a fly I tied in October last year during my stay at Onseepkans.#10-14 Vdm. hook,tied with larva lace and copperwire (size according to hook used).Colours: black,olive or cherry red.Bead size 2-3mm. Maybe not the most succesfull fly,but it has a permanent place in my flybox.
Having battled to catch Trout in Rhodes that were feeding on inchworms dropping from willows, I had to make a plan.
Worms were sinking slowly, so I made something that will break through the surface film and sink slowly.
They also tend to curl, and thus dont have the standard inchworm shape when in the water.
Method: Modified Potts weave on built up underbody.
Material: DMC embroidery thread, dark green & light green. Head, optional Fussy bug thread.
Results: Anyone in Rhodes want to try it out for me.
My first attempt at tying some larger saltwater patterns for an upcoming trip. Tied on 2/0 Grip, 5/0 Gamakatsus and 6/0 mustad trailing a 2/0.
Any suggestions on improvements on the patterns or do you guys think they will work?
Midge imitation using a thread base and flourescent craft paint. Usually top with peacock herl as shown, or with some nice white fluff for gills.
The Lakenvlei Trout hit this pattern hard when suspended beneath a booby or indicator.
The first fish cleans off all the paint so a new fly was needed. Will do some thin epoxy on the next batch, which hopefully will solve the problem.
Trouts eyes are most sensitive to red as this is the colour absorbed first with depth
Make sure the paint is really flourescent, as flourescent colours have the ability to relect light of a shorter wavelength than itsef.
This pattern is my adaption of a worm pattern found in the gallery.The eyes used here are chinese beads,but dumbels are a better option,chinelle and marabou are more preferable materials for bodies as supossed to wool in the example.I`ve added a crystal wing and used a wide(3mm)elastic band for the tail instead of chinelle.One draw back about this pattern tends to twist the tippet,so you`ve got to untwist the tippet after every retrieve.
A new member to my family of flies.
The snotfly imitates an ascending caddis pupa, and caught me a few fish in rhodes.
Designed to be fished downstream on a slack line which gets checked before it gets to the fish so that it rises in front of it.
(excuse the messy eye)
This is a fly that was tied by Grant Holl for a a fly-tying competition held as part of the Bell`s Underberg Fly-fishing Festival, 2000.
Grant is an accomplished fly-fisherman and tier. Here he demonstrated his mastery of body weave construction technique. Unlike many `presentation` flies tied to impress competition judges, this one works pretty well on the fish too.
Tied by Grant Holl for the 1999 Underberg flyfishing festival. Grant is an accomplished flyfisher and flytier. What I like about Grant`s flies is that not only do they look good, they actually catch fish.
Create a tadpole by weaving, so that it showed the light underbelly of the natural proved to be too difficult as the thread slips as the body tapers to the eye.
The solution was to create the body out of spun white deer hair. Shape it and then colour with a marker pen, leaving the eyes and underbody white.
To counter the bouyancy of the deer hair, I used a Bead (in this version) with a strip of lead under the front half of hook shank. (Keep it upright)
This needs to be superglued on, and then coated with head cement, otherwise the deer hair won`t spin.
Testing will commence next weekend.
I tied this cool looking dragon using olive larva lave over brown stretchy nymph rib weaved over olive rabit dubbing. The shellback is Hends body stretch wide color 614 and the legs are made out of brown strechy nymph rib knotted and tied in. The eyes are Larva lace marked black and tied in with figure of 8 wraps. It is tied on a Grip 13812 # 6
Tied this fly in the same way as you would the brassie, except instead of winding the copper wire, I wove it onto the hook shank.(not easy using this micro fine copper wire). The wing case is plaited copper wire over copper and olive u.v. dubbing.
I was looking for a realistic crab looking fly that I could fish slowly and just of the bottom (like a Booby fly on a 20-40cm leader and sinking line). I came up with this Creepy Crab (named after its first victim our swimming pool creepy crawly). The lead in the legs makes it swim balanced. Any size hook and any colour can be used… it just depends on your target species…something that eats crabs.
· The body is simple black foam cut into a crab body shape.
· The hook (black) is pushed through the side of the body, point facing upwards and glued in this position.
· I then push one thick and three thin porcupine quills through to form the legs (make pilot holes first by pushing a needle through the body).
· The front quill is thick and is pushed through horizontally. This forms the pinchers so cut the tip ends in half and glue them before splitting further.
· The second and fourth legs are pushed through at a 450 angle. This allows the thin part to form the hind leg and the thick part the second leg.
· The middle leg is simply pushed through the middle.
· Note that the middle legs have round ends. This is lead wire (4mm) with the one tip melted to form a rounded foot and the other end sharpened. The sharp end is glued and then pushed into the hollow second and third leg to form a weighted foot.
· After this the legs are bent to form the joints and coloured in with permanent marker.
· The eyes are made with black beads and connected with nylon fishing line.
· More weight can be added by stuffing the body with lead if you whish to do so.
· If you want to add more detail like an egg pouch with eggs or read wool as an attractor in the pinchers it can be done!
NB. Take care when melting the lead it shoots when it gets to hot!
PLEASE let me know if and what you catch on it!
Comments and criticisms welcome!
I’m not that big into the salt-water fly-fishing but considering that a lot of fish probably chow on small crayfish I tied this “Kreef” pattern. Kind of based on American patterns used as crawfish imitations. The question is will gully fish like Galjoen or Hotnotsvis actually take it?
I recently submitted a catch report for bass and indicated that this fly worked extremely well. I was asked to post the fly.
It is not my own design, but I can confirm that it works extremely well for trout and bass.
I normally tie it on a #10/#8 1x or 2x long hook. I make red bead eyes (I prefer the red beads with the silver inside as they shine nicely)using 2 red beads and a piece of tight fitting nylon that I burn and squash against the lighter so the beads don`t fall off. After tying on the eyes I tie in the olive marabou forming a tail of roughly the length of the hook shank. I sometimes add a few strands of very thin flash (in the photo it is standing up)to the tail. I sometimes also add a flash rib, but it works even with just the red eyes and the marabou. I then wind the rest of the marabou forward around the hook shank and between the eyes and tie off. A very fast and easy fly to tie, but a very effective fly. I have just tied versions with florescent green eyes (glows in the dark), black with red eyes, black with florescent eyes, black with black eyes and chartreuse versions. I am confident that they will all work well. I also tied a version with a black marabou tail, 2 strands of royal blue flash, a royal blue rib over a peacock herl body (3 strands wound together)and black eyes. It looks deadly - I nearly ate it myself!
Watch my catch reports for feedback on these flies.
This is a new carp fly that is working well. The fly is tied on a #10 scud hook and the eyes are bath chain which flips the hook over. Nice to use as a change fly when the carp are a bit spooky. The tail and body are both made up of marabou.
STARTED WITH A BIT OF "BORED AT WORK INSPIRATION" AND A QUICK STOP AT THE LOCAL ARTS AND CRAFT SHOP .
I`VE BEEN TOLD THAT THE THING LOOKS SO ANIMATED THAT I MIGHT CATCH NEEMO .
WELL IT WOULD BE A START .
WILL IT WORK ?
WHO KNOWS ?
I spent a lot of time this season playing with synthetic materials, and this fly has come out as a keeper. It offers a baitfish profile from all angles, moves a bit of water and casts well. It`s done well in fresh - and salt water and can be tied in a zillion colour combinations.
Tubefly for browntrout
Tag_ oval silver tinsel
But_ Grisly cock
Rear bodey_ perlblue icedub
Front bodey_ purple and blue icedub blue schlappen
Under wing_ white fox an some perlblue Angelhair
Topp wing_ Black fox 4 strands purple and blue crystalflash
Front hackel_ black schlappen and some djungel cock
Topping_ 4-6 strands pecock herl
Head_ spunn black deer hair and a red conehead or make a tyingthread head!!
Here`s a variation on an established theme: An Elk-Hair Caddis with some known triggers added. (Pearlescent tag, CDC underwing and RAB-type overwing) The fly worked pretty well towards the end of last season; I hope it does the same again this year.
This fly will put a knot in most purest fisherman\`s underwear. But try it it works a charm.
Hook: X2 long shank streamer hook size 8 to 14
Thread: Olive or brown 6/0
Eyes: Red beads
Tail: Olive marabou and crystal flash
Body: Copper wire and holographic olive/green dubbing
Thorax: Black hackle and flash (same as used on Flash back nymphs)
Weighting: Optional, find that the unweighted ones produced better but after fishing a deep dam decided to weight these. I normally tie my weighted flies with brown thread.
Not the greatest photos due to the light, but nevertheless, I`ll share it anyway.
The stripes on the mullet are more visible when looking at it in real life, guess what I`m saying is that the photos do`t do the pattern justice.
- I used mirror image in white and grey/silver (synthetic hair)
- Tiny bit of flash
- Mustad circle hook
- Dumbell bead tied in under the shank
- Sequence as the eye and covered it in epoxy for magnifying the pupil
The pattern can be used to immitate various baitfish.
I used a a medium dum bell for the head and stuck eyes on it. Then the body is white and blue synthetic material. I tied 2 peacock herl on either side to hopefully imitate lateral lines and crystal flash and mother of pearl for reflection.
This fly is tied with high density foam almost 2cm thick. It is a bit heavier and casts better when there is a bit of wind than the lighter foam.
Black and grey crystal flash body, long synthetic red/black tail with flash.
Fish it around structure for some exciting surface action.
Due to the dark colouration of the suicid Nymph. It is idealy suited to fishing discoloured waters although it will still take its fair share of fish in clear spring stream type water.
It is also a good fish fetcher when fishing headwaters of streams with Dark rocky bottoms. Give it a try and have Fun. Jax
Tied after reading about the Tigerfish of Tanzania. It seems they have succes on brush flies. This flay is teid with a rattle and steel cable for stinger hook. It keeps the profile and pushes a lot of water.