Rod Wrapping Stands

[Michael]

I promised I would post some pics of my stands, and here they are. Sorry for the low-rez pics, trying to save you guys download time.

Firstly, here is the complete wrapping station. As you can see, the rod-rests are totally movable...and have infinite adjustment. The stand is 1m long, so you can space them 1m apart, or tight up against each other or anywhere in-between.
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff1/FlyfishPro/Rod-Wrapping-Stand-complete.jpg

- Close up of the rod rest base:
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff1/FlyfishPro/Movable-Stands-close-up.jpg

- The bottom. I used aluminium square-tubing for the "channel" that the rod-rest's washer/bolt runs in. The bolt was a normal 8mm bolt, and I epoxied the bolt to the thick square washer (I should have used Pratley Steel-Set epoxy in hindsight, but the Epidermix 372 has held up so far...the stuff is unbelievably strong!). This prevents the bolt from turning. I suppose the best would be to braze the bolt and washer together, but because of the lack of an oxy/acetylene set...I used epoxy. On the top of the rod-rest (pic above) you can see the bolt coming through the top, with a washer and wingnut. This allows for easy fastening or loosening of the rod-rest, for easy adjustment. Just loosen the wingnut, move the rod rest to the desired position and turn the wingnut to secure.
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff1/FlyfishPro/Movable-Stands-close-up-bot.jpg http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff1/FlyfishPro/Movable-Stands-close-up-2.jpg

- The bottom, showing the aluminium channel I made for the rod-rest bolt/washer to slide in.
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff1/FlyfishPro/Rod-Wrapping-Stand-Bottom.jpg

[Michael]

- Close up of the thread holder. I used 8mm flat-head bolts, that I glued into the wood after drilling holes through. Big flat washers are used at both ends of the thread-spool, and then smaller washers, a spring and a wingnut provides tension-adjustment. The two old rod-tips provide tension on the thread, even when you have to back up the thread a little while wrapping. They also provide a steeper thread-to-rod-blank angle, which makes wrapping easier.
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff1/FlyfishPro/Thread-Holder.jpg

- Rod Dryer and extra stand.
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff1/FlyfishPro/Rod-Dryer-Stands.jpg

- I used a microwave motor again (5 rpm). Drilled a 10mm hole through the wood for the little shaft (see next pic).
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff1/FlyfishPro/Dryer-Motor.jpg http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff1/FlyfishPro/Rod-dryer-stand-hole.jpg

[Michael]

- Chuck. I made this from an old plastic cup. I drilled four holes through the cup (allthough three would also work, and maybe add less weight). Then I epoxied four 8mm nuts to the inside of the holes. This enables you to quickly turn the bolts to secure the rod reel seat or butt in the chuck. Crude, but effective (and cheap).
The "bush" is normal EVA grip (used on saltwater conventional rods, made of dense rubber) that I just cut to size, and then cut once length-wise. I slip this over the reel seat, and then put it into the chuck, secure the bolts and switch the motor on. This rubber bush protects the reel-seat or rod, and grips it tightly. The bolts do not slip...works a treat.
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff1/FlyfishPro/Rod-Dryer-CHUCK.jpg http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff1/FlyfishPro/Rod-Bush.jpg

- On the bottom of the chuck "cup" I epoxied the microwave's turntable "nut"...this slides into the hole in the rod dryer stand, over the motor's shaft. To keep it secure onto the shaft of the motor, I put a little prestik in the hole on this "nut". That enables me to remove it off the shaft if I have to. No need to glue it to the shaft.
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff1/FlyfishPro/Rod-Dryer-CHUCK-back.jpg

This system works 100%, and is not expensive to build. I used normal pine and just stained the wood once done, and applied a finish (Woodoc 10). The bottom I didn't worry about being too neat, it's not visible anyway. You could even leave it as is, once sanded. The sides I secured with 5mm flat bar, and the bottom of the stands as well. This makes the stands sturdy and quite heavy, which I like because it prevents the stands from moving around. I glued 20mm plumbing washers to each "foot" under the stands, to protect the table (or whatever surface you put the stands on). These were pretty quick and simple to make, but it is all you would ever need, to wrap easily and successfully.

Regards
Mike

[FishWhisperer]

Thanks Mike, that looks AWESOME!! Cant wait for my first build!!

[Michael]

Thanks Mike, that looks AWESOME!! Cant wait for my first build!!

Thanks FW.
Of course, you can modify the chuck, etc and the other parts to suit you, I just found this quite easy and simple.

Good luck with the build!

Mike

[ebf]

I'll second that AWESOME

Thanks Michael, busy building a similar stand at the moment and your pics have already given me some new ideas.

My base is pine with hardboard on top. Larger channel in the pine and small channel in hardboard. Have not done the routing for that yet, so will think about your design a bit.

Cool idea about the square washers. On my "Vee's" I am using a hardwood dowel in line with the bolt to prevent lateral twist. The base of my Vee is longer.

For the thread tensioners I got some scrap piano wire from Heuer music shop, and tiny tiptops.

I like the "bush" part of your chuck, very clever. Was going to tap a thread into PCV, but the expoxied nut inside idea seems simpler.

[Korrie]

For thread tensions, you can buy the sowing machine thread tensioner, for about R20 at any of the Industrial Sowing machine places. They might have some old ones that they will give you for free. But I really like the way you have done yours, very clever.

It amazes me to see how ingenous and crafty the forumers are. Well done

[ebf]

Michael, one more question pls.

What glue did you use for felt onto wood ? I have a suspicion that contact adhesive may "seep" through the cloth.

[Michael]

Michael, one more question pls.

What glue did you use for felt onto wood ? I have a suspicion that contact adhesive may "seep" through the cloth.

Hi Eben

I used Ponal (spelling?) extra-strong wood glue. Dries up fast, and I only used a little bit, to prevent seepage. I wanted to use Epidermix 372 epoxy, as it's nice and "paste-like", and won't seep through, but you will never get it off again! As I change the felt every now and then, the ponal works good, because you can remove it without a hellova battle.

With my other stands, I just stapled the felt to the wood. (Those heavy duty staplers, that they use on furniture...available at any harware or Builders Warehouse, etc). But again, it's a battle to get the staples out if you want to replace the felt. So far the Ponal works very well, and not a mission to remove if needed.

I think Pliobond (or Genkem...the yellow glue used for shoe soles, etc) might work very well too, as it stays "rubbery" when hard, so won't damage your blank if some does seep through a little.

Regards
Mike

[ShaunF]

Michael, one more question pls.

What glue did you use for felt onto wood ? I have a suspicion that contact adhesive may "seep" through the cloth.

I used Genkem contact glue, but the one in the aerosol spray can. Worked perfectly with the felt.

[Pheasant Tail Nymph]

Michael, that looks fantastic! I didn't sit and figure out all the mechanics of it, but your pictures are very clear. This thread will really come in handy when I get the chance to build my own rod.

Thanks a lot,
PTN