czech nymph leader - why so different

[Ruafish]

So basically will just have mono and a very short bit of fly line in the water. Not sure if its right or if it would work

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[Korrie]

Sorry if I sound completely idiotic here but i havent actually done any czech nymphing. Can i tie on a length of 0.55mm bright orange monofilament, and attach my tippet to that? If this is fine, how long do i make each section?

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sure you can.
One of the options of a CZ leader setup is bright mono about 1,5x the rod lenght and the last meter or so is the clear tippet material

[Korrie]

Some of the variations on the CZ nymphing
It started by the Polish fly fishers with straight mono.
Then the Cz adapted the method a little. basically just changing the weights of the fly a little.
Then you have the french nymphing methods.
The Czechs then developed a method they call the Extended Cz French nymphing. (here you had leader setups of up to 40 feet) Not used anymore, as it is very difficult and has very limited applications and as the rules of Competition fly fishing changed, it has no place in competition.
The latest CZ nymphing method is the dry fly with nymph. Also a very technical way of fishing fast water with fish that takes and rejects flies in less than half a second in some instances.

[dollar]

So basically will just have mono and a very short bit of fly line in the water. Not sure if its right or if it would work

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that's me bud, i'm more tuned for feel than visual. sure as mentioned earlier, i'll miss a few sutle bites others i'll catch but night fishing i'm probablyonto of the game. off for early supper then i'll explain how i build my rig

[Ruafish]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help. I will be on the orange for about 2 weeks so I want to mix it up and try everything I can. If I want to try the strike indicator method, do I use a shorter and lighter leader? I'll use a coil rather than the yarn ball since I see most people say it's more sensitive?

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[dollar]

here is my set-up
from fly line a 2,7m to 3m long tippet of 0,13 to 0,15mm tippet material. for a beginner i would suggest 0,16 to 0,18mm line, these thicknesses cause drag where thinner lines cut water better. also thinner lines for lighter rods, stronger rods (#5 and higher) pop thinner lines easier. thin tippet material should not be connected directly onto fly line as this will cause damage to the fly line, here tie a small piece of 0.35 (min) to the fly line with a nail knot or similar or use a braided loop. i always fish with two flies, dropper and point fly. From the dropper knot to point is 70cm apart, the dropper line is 10cm long, this will separate the flies by 60cm. flies are unweight most of the times but if weighted i would use beads no bigger than 2mm (for colour). my dropper most times are unweighted to allow for a more natural drift. the point fly generally is smaller but never bigger than the dropper and its beaded (well most times). now, for weighing down the rig i make use of two split shots. the first split shot is fitted in between both flies, from the dropper knot roughly 25cm then the second split shot a mere 6cm from the first shot (towards the point fly). these two weights make this rig perform. they talk to each other, hehehe, in others words they send off signals to what is happening below. try it out of the water, grab the line on either side of the split shot (about 20 to 30cm away) then bounce your hands, like playing drum sticks, then pull the split shot apart and try again, you will immediately feel something wrong. the idea is to have two levels with the flies.
casting the rig, start by lobbing the rig downstream, allow (at first) 0,5m fly line out of the top guide. lob the upstream, as soon as the flies touch the water (your rod should be level and/or pointed towards the flies), keep the rod in that position for a split second then with an easy vertical lift of the rod tip, this will allow for the flies to descend vertical down the column of water, once you see the leader to straighten out or doesnt sink much more and the starts to drift downstream means the rig has reached the bottom, you now have to follow the leader with the rod, don’t pull rig downstream but allow it to drift on its own while maintaining the leader kind of taught. here the leader will have a bend from rod tip to where it enters the water, any funny movements, stoppage or jumps, only needs a nudge from the rod handle to set the hook. If the rig is on the bottom you should feel it as the rod signals a Moscow code in your hand, if you don’t then the rig is off the bottom and also most likely you are holding the rod too tight in the hand, loosen the grip a little, hold the rod lightly. there are times you get stuck on rocks, just lift the rod higher to assist the drift further downstream. but if you are getting stuck to often on the bottom then two things need sorting. firstly you too much weight (change the split shot to smaller size, also if you are not hooking the bottom from time to time and/or you can’t feel the split shot talking to you like moscow code put heavier shot). secondly, the is that the split shot has come loose and has met up with the point fly. this happens a bit because of the soft shot material (lead). allow the rig to drift downstream before lobbing upstream. work that lay with two or three casts, cast out in increments to work the area. once you happy you have worked the area you can pull out another half meter or full meter of fly line and work the water further out. you can lob this with, up to 3meter of fly line out. beyond this point you can cast further out, by using the tuck cast without any false casts (this is for another day).

[Ruafish]

Brilliant thanks a lot! Will be practising that over the next few months

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