Triggerfish Crab SBS

[MCC]

This is originally a Bluewater Flies pattern to which I added one or two twists.

This pattern does not look like much but it is fairly durable (as much as any Triggerfish fly can be) and the Triggers love it.


Hook: Mustad C68 SS #2

Thread: Hot orange

Body: Hot Fluo Orange Velcro oval shaped), Epoxy & sand

Legs: Hot orange round rubber legs

Claws: Cree hackle

Eyes: Burnt mono

Mouthparts: Pearl Midge Flash

Weight: Tungsten Dumbells

Coral guard: 20 lbs Fluoro





Step 1

Use gold coloured tungsten dumbells. You can get away with a much smaller/flatter profile.

These are tied in at mid-shank or even slightly further back on top of the shank to help invert the fly in the water and to keep it on the bottom.

Remember that this is not a fly for Permit where the sink rate and angle of sink is important. For Triggers it will simply be fished flush on the bottom like a Bonefish pattern, so the eyes can be placed anywhere on the shank. If they are placed at the eye of the hook I feel that the fly is more inclined to wedge itself in cracks in the coral.

Next you tie in a short loop of 20 lbs fluoro extending over the eye of the hook.



Step 2

Cut a small oval shaped piece of velcro and superglue to the top-side of the hook.



Step 3

Again apply a small drop of superglue and stick on the eyes, two cree hackles and a small clump of midge flash.

The eyes are made by burning sections of 20 lbs Maxima, dipping in black paint and then dipped in epoxy. A bit of an overkill but the result looks more prominent.



Step 4

Pre knot the legs and simply again stick them on with super glue. You can also use six long legs spaced further apart. Mottled orange legs look better when the legs are tied long.



Step 5

Collect some clean sand from an atoll in the Seychelles. Ha, got you there.

Actually it is not that important - this particular sand is from Alphonse Island but I suppose you can use sand from Farquar as well.

Mix the sand with a small amount of epoxy and cover the belly area of the fly.



Step 6

Warm a dubbing needle on a flame and pull the coral guard back under the belly of the fly. The heat will permanently bend the mono as shown.

Cut the mono loop to leave two short legs on which the fly can bounce over coral.

This coral guard is a bit experimental but I am convinced that it would improve the fly. With the weight placed in the middle of the fly combined with a leader attached to the front, the fly should almost balance on the tips of the mono. I also believe that the Triggerfish will eat the fly much easier when it is positioned just off the bottom.

[Scythe]

Jissie, somebody's been quite busy after a relative period of quiet.

Thanks MCC, good SBSes all around.

[Nymph+O-]

Excellent looking "fly"!
Excuse my ignorance but what is the 20Lb fluoro for?

[MCC]

The crab was done at half past three in the morning after too much red wine.

I'll try and do one or so per week from now - Grant needs all the help he can get and maybe we can create a really super library here.

Cheers
MC

[MCC]

The fluoro is actually a coral guard. This type of fly, when fished over coral, tend to get stuck in cracks or simply hang up on the edges of the coral. The twin guard keeps the fly upright and kind-off bounces it over the obstructions. At least that's the theory.

[Scythe]

Good logic there, especially when you take into consideration how a crab actually moves when it's fleeing an oncoming predator I think the mono could actually enhance the realism of the fly.

The best ties are flied ... I mean ... cerebellums are fried ... I mean ... whatever ... when good friends and too much red wine is involved

[Garage]

Awesome fly MC.

[Umhlangarox]

I like MC

[FishWhisperer]

Very very nice! Cant wait to tie a few up...... just need to find a source for orange and tan velcro and then quickly pop over to Alphonse to grab a bit of sand.

[cptfly]

thanks MC, I was always looking for a nice crab pattern... I cannot wait for your prawn pattern